trim-msg - 8/16/10 Medieval and SCA trim for clothing. NOTE: See also the files: applique-msg, beadwork-msg, cross-stitch-msg, emb-blackwork-msg, looms-msg, weaving-msg, sewing-msg. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: holsten at golden.berkeley.edu () Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Help with Garb Question Date: 4 Jun 1993 22:25:29 GMT Organization: U.C. College of Natural Resources This is in answer to the question about metallic thread. Having just vacationed in England and of course having visited all of the museums I had time for, I can say with absolute certainty that metallic threads *are* period. I saw numerous examples of metallic thread used in embriodery in religious as well as royal coronation robes. I also saw gold metallic thread used in a card woven strip taken from the Sutton Hoo. The strip was about 2" wide, brown, with a geometric metallic thread pattern. (And, no, I'm not even going to *try* to draw it in ASCII.) According to one of the books I picked up while I was there, (if anyone's interested, I can check on the name at home) the metallic thread used in the middle ages was very thin metal (gold will beat into an unbelievably thin sheet) wrapped around a spun linen core. The people who made this thread were paid very well, as were the embroiders who used it. In other words, don't use metallic thread unless you're making an outfit that would have been worn by a *very* rich person. (Like a Bishop or Prince). Joanna From: haslock at rust.zso.dec.com (Nigel Haslock) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Help with Garb Question Date: 4 Jun 1993 23:31:27 GMT Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation - DECwest Engineering Greetings from Fiacha, As another poster commented, gold brocaded trim is at least as old as the Sutton Hoo ship burial. Using metallic trim was popular throughout the middles ages and the rennaisance. There were a variety of ways of inserting metals into both weaving and embroidery. While gold wrapped thread was ruinously expensive in early period and not much cheaper in late period, disposable income improved considerably. You should have no qualms about using such trims for rennaisance costumes. It is also worth remembering that the finest costumes we in the SCA use are intended as court attire. At most courts it was expected that one would display the signs of wealth, both real and imagined. Again, metallic trim and metallic enhanced embriodery, is utterly appropriate for costumes to be worn on such occaisions. Putting metallics on a tunic for slumming around camp would simply pointless and wasteful and so not done. Regards Fiacha From: habura at vccnw11.its.rpi.edu (Andrea Marie Habura) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Help with Garb Question Date: 7 Jun 1993 11:55:09 GMT Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY Heavy Metal: Mary Otto asks if using metallic threads in embroidery is non- period. As far as the woven trim goes, I'll have to give you an "I dunno", but I seem to recall Mistress Thora documenting metallic threads used in tablet weaving. For embroidery, the answer is "it is very period, but mostly for embroidery done before 1400 in the English style". I have been doing work lately on a style of embroidery known as opus Anglicanum, which had its heyday between about 1200 and 1400; it was considered the hottest stuff in Europe at the time. Most surviving examples are ecclesiastic, but this is probably a byproduct of two things: the ecclesiastical vestments were likely better cared for, and the secular stuff, if it fell out of fashion (and opus A. seemed to become very passe' in the 15th c.), would very likely have been burned to extract its precious metals. We do know, however, that this style of embroidery was used for nonreligious items in Period; some examples survive, and inventories of goods belonging to wealthy individuals list pieces as well. There's also an interesting piece of legislation from the time of Edward III of England that restricts the use of embroidery on clothing; gold is specifically mentioned. Was gold thread used after 1400? Yes, but not nearly as often, and not in such huge quantities, as far as I can tell. Anyone interested in further info on this embroidery style is more than welcome to email me; I'll talk your ear off. Alison MacDermot Needle jock From: priest at vaxsar.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Metallic Thread (was: Help with Garb Question) Date: 7 Jun 93 10:17:23 +1000 Organization: Vikings R Us Unto the Fishyfolk of the Rialto, greeting from Thora Sharptooth! Ah, the Sutton Hoo textiles, the thread that wouldn't die.... Joanna (holsten at golden.berkeley.edu) writes: >Having just vacationed in England and of course having visited all of >the museums I had time for, I can say with absolute certainty that >metallic threads *are* period. I saw numerous examples of metallic >thread used in embriodery in religious as well as royal coronation robes. >I also saw gold metallic thread used in a card woven strip taken >from the Sutton Hoo. The strip was about 2" wide, brown, with a >geometric metallic thread pattern. (And, no, I'm not even going to >*try* to draw it in ASCII.) I wonder if you are thinking not of the Sutton Hoo textiles but of the brocades from the Taplow Barrow man's grave from Buckinghamshire, which is roughly contemporary with the Sutton Hoo [ship-grave/cenotaph/choose one]? These are a series of tablet-woven strips brocaded with flat gold ribbons in various widths and geometric patterns. To my knowledge no Sutton Hoo textile was worked with either silk or metallic threads. >According to one of the books I picked up while I was there, (if >anyone's interested, I can check on the name at home) the >metallic thread used in the middle ages was very thin metal (gold will >beat into an unbelievably thin sheet) wrapped around a spun linen core. The use of gold metallic thread for textile ornamentation goes back at least as far as Macedonian Greece (it has been found in the "royal" tomb at Vergina, often alleged to be the tomb of Philip of Macedon, Alexander the Great's father). In early Anglo-Saxon brocaded textiles, the gold threads that were used were not "spun gold," but were flat ribbons (i.e., not wound around a core). The Byzantines were using spun gold thread in the same period, however. Later on, spun gold became the medium of choice for not just metal-enhanced weaving but also all those exquisite Anglo-Saxon embroideries. Meanwhile, finds from the ninth and tenth centuries in Sweden reveal the use of fine gold wire as a brocading material. Gold was often spun around silk, linen, and even horsehair in period, with silk being the preferred medium due to its suppleness. However, for weaving uses, particularly in middle or late period, often gold was applied to strips of animal membrane. With respect to metallic threads, I'd like to thank Fiacha for being brave enough to point out the most important fact of all: >Putting metallics on a tunic for slumming around >camp would simply pointless and wasteful and so not done. Anyone wishing sources, please e-mail me. From: holsten at golden.berkeley.edu () Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Metallic Thread (was: Help with Garb Question) Date: 7 Jun 1993 16:28:09 GMT Organization: U.C. College of Natural Resources In article <1993Jun7.101723.728 at vaxsar.vassar.edu> priest at vaxsar.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman) writes: >Unto the Fishyfolk of the Rialto, greeting from Thora Sharptooth! > >Joanna wrote: >>I also saw gold metallic thread used in a card woven strip taken >>from the Sutton Hoo. >I wonder if you are thinking not of the Sutton Hoo textiles but of the >brocades from the Taplow Barrow man's grave from Buckinghamshire, which is >roughly contemporary with the Sutton Hoo [ship-grave/cenotaph/choose one]? >These are a series of tablet-woven strips brocaded with flat gold ribbons in >various widths and geometric patterns. To my knowledge no Sutton Hoo textile >was worked with either silk or metallic threads. > The piece that I saw was in the Sutton Hoo display in the British Museum. I was actually disappointed at the display--I had been expecting rooms full of stuff, but there were only a couple not very full display cases. >With respect to metallic threads, I'd like to thank Fiacha for being brave >enough to point out the most important fact of all: > >>Putting metallics on a tunic for slumming around >>camp would simply pointless and wasteful and so not done. > Right. That's the point that I was trying to make when I said that metallic threads should be used only on *good* clothes that would have been worn by rich people. (I wasn't trying to say that you had to *be* a Prince or something to use metallic threads--only that the *clothes* should be nice enough for someone of "Importance"--i.e., not "camp slumming" clothes.) Joanna From: priest at vaxsar.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Metallic Threads (was: Help with Garb) Date: 8 Jun 93 01:03:20 GMT Organization: Vikings R Us Unto the Fishyfolk of the Rialto from Thora Sharptooth, greeting! I have missed several days' worth of Rialto in the past week or two. Consequently, I do not have much of an idea about the context of the metallic-thread conversation. That's why I have responded to it the way I have. Joanna (holsten at golden.berkeley.edu) writes in response to my earlier posting: TH>>I wonder if you are thinking not of the Sutton Hoo textiles but of the TH>>brocades from the Taplow Barrow man's grave from Buckinghamshire, which is TH>>roughly contemporary with the Sutton Hoo [ship-grave/cenotaph/choose one]? TH>>These are a series of tablet-woven strips brocaded with flat gold ribbons in TH>>various widths and geometric patterns. To my knowledge no Sutton Hoo textile TH>>was worked with either silk or metallic threads. >> J>The piece that I saw was in the Sutton Hoo display in the British J>Museum. I was actually disappointed at the display--I had been J>expecting rooms full of stuff, but there were only a couple not very J>full display cases. The British Museum series of publications on the Sutton Hoo cenotaph finds has a long and elaborate chapter on textiles which does not mention a single scrap of gold brocading, much less any piece of tablet-weaving 2" wide. The article "Early Anglo-Saxon Gold Braids," by Elisabeth Crowfoot and Sonia Chadwick Hawkes (MEDIEVAL ARCHAEOLOGY 11 [1967], 42-86), lists an extensive catalogue of 95 finds of gold-brocaded tablet-weaving, but never mentions Sutton Hoo. It does, however, have this to say: "When Mrs. [Grace] Crowfoot examined the fragments of gold strip from the rich barrow-burial at Taplow in Buckinghamshire (no. 1), which include the only two pieces [of Anglo-Saxon gold brocading] with any identifiable textile surviving, she found that here, too, the fabric was a tablet-woven braid decorated with surface-brocading in gold (PL. IX, A-C). These pieces both came from a single wide braid, but from some other gold strips with no textile adhering, but showing marks and folds from the weave, it proved possible to reconstruct the brocaded pattern of a second and narrower band from this important grave (FIG. 12, no. 2). Mrs. Crowfoot was thus enabled to weave the reproductions of the two braids now on show in the British Museum (PL. IX, D)." With respect to the gold-brocaded tablet-woven piece presently on display at the BM, is there any way to check on its provenance? I am wondering if Mrs. Crowfoot's reproduction(s) might still be on display. Gold-brocaded tablet-weaving is one of my specialties, as is early period tablet-weaving generally. If there are new finds of gold-brocaded tablet-weaving from Sutton Hoo, I really-really-really want to know about them!!! J>metallic threads should be used only on *good* clothes that would have J>been worn by rich people. (I wasn't trying to say that you had to *be* J>a Prince or something to use metallic threads--only that the *clothes* J>should be nice enough for someone of "Importance"--i.e., not "camp J>slumming" clothes.) Quite right; I missed your making this earlier point. ************************************************************************** Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth Poughkeepsie, NY Frosted Hills ("where's that?") priest at vassar.edu East Kingdom Gules, three square weaver's tablets in bend Or ************************************************************************** From: WALTER at tandem.PHysics.upenn.EDU Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Gold Thread Date: 8 Jun 1993 16:37:46 -0400 Organization: The Internet Greetings to the gentles of the Rialto! Couched gold thread in embroidery is also seen after 1400. One technique which I particularly admire is "or nue" (accent over the e) a very rich technique in which the entire piece is worked in couched gold. Thin spun gold threads are couched with colored silk, and the pattern is produced through the color and density of the couching thread. Such pieces can be extremely detailed, but the entire piece also shimmers with gold. Also, as late as the 16th century, the dress in which Eleanora of Toledo was buried is richly decorated with bands of couched gold work. By late period, much metal thread used in textiles was silver gilt (silver covered with a thin layer of gold), epsecially for large projects (tapestry weaving for instance -- all those murky dark areas are silver gilt thread, and the silver has tarnished). Metal threads were also used for bobbin lace in the 16th c. DMC makes a flat "spun gold" thread - not real gold, but flat metal around a fiber core - and many catalogs offer "Jap" gold, which is a round spun gold thread (you _can_ get real Jap gold, but the price...). Try to use embroidery techniques in which you couch the metal threads (i.e., sew them to the surface of the fabric using another thread, preferably of waxed silk for strength), as spun gold is not stable enough to survive constant pulling in and out of fabric. E-mail me for catalog sources if you need them. Good luck! Sincerely, Karen/Richenda Shire of Hartshorn-dale, East walter at tandem.physics.upenn.edu From: habura at vccnw12.its.rpi.edu (Andrea Marie Habura) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Gold Thread Date: 9 Jun 1993 16:19:13 GMT Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY On gold thread on garb: I certainly agree that goldwork embroidery continued throughout our period. The interesting thing about techniques like or nue' is that I haven't been able to find a record of these techniques being used much in secular embroidery. Ecclesiastical and other formal, absolutely (the best or nue' I've seen is from the vestments belonging to the Order of the Golden Fleece). Secular goldwork seems to be more along the lines of laid cord and similar effects after about 1450. (Someone was kind enough to give me a pointer to some Titian portraits that use gold trim; I shall have to check them out). If anyone has evidence in this area, I would love to hear it. My area of specialization is 14th century, but my lord and I have recently discovered that 15th century garb suits him very well. I'd like the embroidery to match the garb chronologically. Anyone happen to know what was used as embroidered ornamentation on houppelandes? Alison MacDermot Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: sclark at epas.utoronto.ca (Susan Clark) Subject: Re: Help with Garb Question Organization: University of Toronto - EPAS Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1993 21:46:04 GMT Greetings! On the subject of metallic thread, add "16th century" to the time periods where it is seen. Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has some nice examples. The way the thread was made was thus: a very long thin strip of hammered-out metal (gold, sometimes silver) was wond around a core of fibre, usually silk. Interestingly enough, you can still find modern metallic embroidery stuff made the same way.... I've seen documentation for metallic thread all the way back to the seventh cenentury. Now if only people worried as much about what kind of decorative motifs were used in each period as they seem to about the metallic thread question!!:-) Regards Nicolaa sclark at epas.utoronto.ca Susan Carroll-Clark From: dave.calafrancesco at drakkar.mhv.net (David Calafrancesco) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Painted trim Date: 20 Apr 96 11:36:58 Organization: Druid's Grove FIDO -> Internet Gateway fyoder at mesa5.Mesa.Colorado.EDU wrote in a message to All: {Conmhara wonders about early period clothing... snip} fm> I've tried tablet woven trim, but till I get myself a loom fm> that can handle longer lentgths, I've put that on hold. Or is fm> trim even period for extreme northwest Europe of that time? fm> Perhaps trim then was more of a simple colored band? Hmmm... From what I have seen, simple edge trim was done for several hundred years during the period you are looking at. I can't speak specifically re: irish celt as I tend more towards Viking/Rus. According to several tablet weaving books (Collingwood comes to mind) many edges were 'sealed' using 4-12 cards making a band a few millimeters wide. I have seen others doing a technique that added closed trim in basic colors with a threaded in pattern (if any pattern at all). Essentially you make a warp as long as necessary, you coil the unused portion and suspend the rest between two points. Another poster mentioned about clamps on a table. I have used a 5' board with two posts coming up from it as well as a modern "Inkle" loom. I prefer the inkle for belts and off the fabric weaving as it holds my tension better and allows me to have a much straighter and more regular edges. I also find it faster and easier to transport. Back to the trim part, what I have seen is you thread a simple 4-12 card pattern, run the weft thread via a needle and do a loop weave (ie every weft shot starts from the same side making a 'tube') through the shed and then thread the weft through the fabric edge. Then rotate the pack (simple rotations (all forward or all backwords with the pattern often being the S and Z threading and a mono-chrome warp). Back into the same end of the shed as the first weft shot and back down through the fabric and keep repeating. The beauty of this seems to be that if you run out of warp you can attach new warp in an inconspiciuos spot and continue. Same thing goes for the weft so you don't need a lot of that running around. Periodically do a reversal (I recommend every few inches) to keep the warp end from getting all twisted up. When you get the end, you use needle and some extra warp length to pull the warp securely back into the piece to finish it off. Haraldr Bassi, Frosted Hills, East haraldr at drakkar.mhv.net From: wdalt at wam.umd.edu (William Dalton) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re:Painted Trim Date: Sun, 21 Apr 96 19:49:19 GMT Organization: University of Maryland College Park >Number Four: The reason I ask about painted trim is that I am allergic >to all the floral trim I've seen at the shops, and the pseudo-greek >type >trim makes me retch, so I'm looking for alternatives. I've tried >tablet >woven trim, but till I get myself a loom that can handle longer lentgths, >I've put that on hold. Or is trim even period for extreme northwest >Europe of that time? Perhaps trim then was more of a simple colored >band? Hmmm... >Conmhara I realize you mention not wanting to pursue tablet weaving, but Egon Hansen's book "Tablet Weaving" (ISBN#87-7739-047-4) has many examples and recreations of trims from the Viking Period. Perhaps they can give you some suggestions of what to look for in the trim section of a fabric store, or inspire you to try tablet weaving again. Nancy Dalton aka Earnwynn van Zwaluwenburg From: stircraz at concentric.net (Rhonda ) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: attention clothing makers! Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 02:30:18 -0500 Organization: Concentric Internet Services In article , seer at floodland.mv.com (Runaway of the Apocalypse) wrote: > I'm in the process of trying to find some nice embroidered ribbon for > our wedding clothes, but I'm just not in a good area for it, I think, here in > the midst of New Hampshire. Where is a good place to find embroidered ribbon? > I would be willing to order from a catalog, etc. I'm looking for mostly > wide ribbon with gold and subdued colours or similar colours. Where do YOU > get your ribbon? > > -Rue > seer at floodland.mv.com Try Heritage Trimming in Barnstead, NH Sorry, I don't have the phone number, but you can try information. Lady Rhondalynn MacLeod Meridies From: ladyallyn at aol.com (Lady Allyn) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Embroidered ribbons Date: 7 Jul 1996 00:05:46 -0400 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Gentle Friend, Many of the large cloth chains (Hancock, Cloth World and all of their step-children) are national or at least represented across the country. Fine needlework stores frequently have people who do this sort of thing on a custom basis -- and if you're lucky... they conduct classes, so you *might* have a whole crop of students willing to do a couple of pieces each. Vocational schools and design schools that have textile programs can be very helpful, especially if you coordinate with the instructor at the beginning of a semester/quarter (and provide materials that the students might not otherwise get to work with). In addition, Capital Imports 1-800-521-7647 , Labours of Love 1800-853-8537 , Martha Pullen 1800-547-4176 and Oppenheim's 219-982-6848 have extensive catalogues of various "heirloom" sewing supplies. Another excellent resource for classes, supplies, advertising is "Sew News 309-682-6626, available in virtually any/every fabric store. It is a monthly magazine of the "slick" variety. Peace and Strength, Lady Allyn From: hrjones at uclink.berkeley.edu (Heather Rose Jones) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Garb query Date: 19 Jul 1996 21:29:22 GMT Organization: University of California, Berkeley Nanette Rioux (ae395 at freenet.unbc.edu) wrote: : I have a few questions about garb in general that I hope the gentle folk : of the Rialto can help me with. Here goes: : 1. On many illustrations of garb, I have noted the trim to be decorated : with jewels (or cut glass). How are these stones/pieces attached? Are : they set first? The only extant garment I've seen that has this sort of decoration is a late-12th century alb, preserved as part of the insignia of the Holy Roman Empire. The cuff is decorated with embroidery and pearls as well as a number of cabochon stones. These stones are in metal settings -- from the photos it appears to use both bezel and pronged settings -- which, presumably, are sewn in some fashion to the fabric underneath. A detailed report on the garments might have further information, but I have not been able to locate one yet. My personal _guess_ is that the metal findings have holes in them, either in such an arangement that the whole stone-and-setting combination can be sewn down, or so that he finding can be sewn down first and then the stone set into it. From a practical point of view, bezel settings would be much less likely than pronged ones to catch on all and sundry they come in contact with. (They also appear to be far more numerous on the original garment.) Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn From: andrixos at usit.net (Steven Boyd) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: TrimTex Date: 24 Feb 1997 23:04:13 GMT wrote: > I was wondering if anyone knows the location of Trim Tex, I'm not sure > if I am spelling it correctly. I was told that it's about two hours > from Pennsic and I that I could get great prices on trim there. > > If anyone has a location or phone number I would really appreciate it. > > Kristi Why The Trimtex mill store is in Williamsport Pennsylvania, about 4 hours from Pennsic. While there are indeed great prices there, you can purchase their products through a number of merchants at the war, at not a huge mark-up. Considering the time lost in the drive, as well as the cost of the gas, and the fact that their selection is about 80% inappropriate for SCA use, shopping with the merchants is really for sensible. These merchants include: A Bit of Everything Calontir Trim Cameron's Head to Toe The Pillaged Village If you still wish to pursue it, you may contact the Mill at (717) 326-9135. Ask for the Mill Store. Tell them Steve sent you. Master Andrixos Seljukroctonis, Proprietor, Calontir Trim who will soon be launcing a Web Page for your shopping convenience From: excmairi at aol.com (EXCMairi) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: TrimTex Date: 25 Feb 1997 13:32:01 GMT >The Trimtex mill store is in Williamsport Pennsylvania, about 4 hours >from Pennsic. While there are indeed great prices there, you can purchase >their products through a number of merchants at the war, at not a huge mark-up. >Considering the time lost in the drive, as well as the cost of the gas, >and the fact that their selection is about 80% inappropriate for SCA use, >shopping with the merchants is really for sensible. Actually, having been to the store many times, I would say that 80% IS appropriate for SCA use! Especially the metallic and colored braids and ropes (the kind of thing that many trim merchants don't stock, preferring to have the flat patterned trims). I have always definitely found it worth the trip, which is about 4 hours from my home in Philadelphia. We usually do the run on days like Columbus Day or Presidents' Day (when we have off but the store is open), leaving at 8:00 am and getting home about 6:00 pm. I've been known to come home with 3-4 garbage bags full of a riot of stuff, but I do have this obsession... Mairi From: norseman at voicenet.com (Vernon M. Wood III) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: TrimTex Date: Fri, 28 Feb 1997 16:08:13 GMT Will all due respect to the other repliers to your question, I would like to encourage you to go to Trimtex if you desire amazing prices on amazing trim. L Herr-Gelatt and J R Gelatt wrote: >TrimTex is about 4 1/2 hours from Pennsic, across the highest mountains >in the state (you'll need a good vehicle. It's quite a drive across >I-80, one of the worst highways ever). Both posters have said Trimtex is 4-4 1/2 hours away, and I'm surprised, as I live in Harrisburg, which is further away from Pennsic, but is just about 4 hours away. I realize I-80 is not as good a highway as the turnpike; I suspect that may explain some of the difference. Looking at a map, Trimtex is about 180 miles from Pennsic. Probably doable inside of 4 hours. But I will admit I haven't used I-80 in recent years; it could be longer. >Trimtex is in Williamsport PA (Shire of Abhainn ceach Ghlais in >Aethelmearc), and they are only open to the public on certain days of the >year. You can sometimes get an appointment to go in and buy privately if >you are buying in bulk or there are a lot of you buying. This is >sometimes unreliable (sometimes they forget you're coming). I visit Trimtex at least three times a year. My information is that their factory store is open every weekday except for a couple of holidays. I don't know if the above poster just hasn't been there recently, or what. I have never gone there without being able to shop, and I have never made special arrangements. > Do not plan on a day trip to Trimtex from Pennsic. You'll be dissapointed. I have to admit I think this would be a bit silly, leaving all the wonderful things happening at Pennsic to go to Trimtex. But, maybe, you could go the day after, or if you're going to be at Pennsic the whole two weeks, go in the first week which is slower. >You can call directory information for their number. It's in the 717 area >code. Sorry I don't have it. Ack! I thought I could do something useful and post the phone number, but I can't find it. Sorry! >A recent post told us (and it's true---I paraphrase) "why spend all that >money traveling to TrimTex when many many SCA trim merchants frequent >their sales and can sell it to you at Pennsic?" Trimtex is a >manufacturer/wholesaler, not a store. As I said, they do have a factory store, which is a small series of rooms just jam-packed with all kinds of trims. I respectfully disagree with the people saying to just buy the trims at Pennsic. Most SCA merchants double the price they paid. I don't blame them, I realize they're merchanting to make a profit. BUT if you're buying a lot of trim, paying $2.00 a yard is greatly different than $0.75 a yard. Also, Trimtex has a much wider variety of trims than are represented in the SCA marketplace. I was also surprised when I first went to Trimtex to see all kinds of really period-looking trim that NO ONE carries. There's a whole wall full of metallics of various kinds, some of which look incredibly rich and hand-embroidered when you sew them on your garb. But, these trims are not carried by most merchants, because they are usually thin in width, and cost between $0.10 and $0.40 a yard. One merchant told me that it's not worth their while to cart around stuff they'll only make 20 cents a yard profit on. Also, there's a cardboard box filled with plastic bags of trim, usually thin stuff, often metallic. Each bag sells by weight, and the cost per yard usually turns out to be extremely low. Of course, you have to unwind and sometime detangle several hundred yards of trim, but I've had a great deal of fun gloating over my finds the evening after a trip, and then I have lots of wonderful trim for real cheap. Again, I'm not criticising the merchants (especially since I'm one of them!); they're here to make a living, and for people who have no inclination to go to Trimtex, they serve a great purpose. But if you're inclined, and need a great deal of trim, a trip to Trimtex can be worth it. You can also use the trip to stop by Woolrich, very nearby, where the factory store sells Woolrich clothes at a discount, and blanket-weight pieces of wonderful wool for significant discounts. Great for heavy tunics or particolor cloaks! Conversely, if you don't want to make the trip, you can shop at the merchants' and know that you're not paying all that much more (and certainly less than at the mundane sewing stores!) and you're also helping to support your friends in business in the SCA. Linette de Gallardon From: lyoness at panix.com (Jean Krevor) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Trimtex Date: 4 Mar 1997 18:19:52 -0500 Organization: Panix Greetings, y'all-- EXCMairi wrote: >>Trimtex is in Williamsport PA (Shire of Abhainn ceach Ghlais in >>Aethelmearc), and they are only open to the public on certain days of the > >>year. You can sometimes get an appointment to go in and buy privately if >>you are buying in bulk or there are a lot of you buying. > >I'm sorry, but this in not true. They have a factory store that is open >to the public, Mondays through Fridays most times of the year and >Saturdays during the pre-Christmas season. They take cash and checks but >not charge cards (last time I was there). They will also do mail-order, >if you send them a swatch of what you want. If you are a serious >trim-a-holic or can't get trim anywhere near you or do a lot of sewing for >a lot of people, it is worth the trip. Their metallic flat patterned >trims are all in the 89 cent/yard range, gold and silver metalic braids >run under 50 cents a yard (and some under 25 cents). Flat patterned >fabric trims (i.e., not metalic) run at 39-69 cents. What she said. Also, the staff is quite helpful, and will allow you to cut small swatches with prices, if you can't buy everything you want to right away. They are quite happy to do mail order. They are also willing to weave runs of a trim that you design, but you have to have a BIG order for it to be worth their while. I have never taken advantage of this service, but I do remember thinking that for the price, it would be worth looking into, if I ever designed the "right" trim. This might be an idea for a kingdom or large household to look into. It is also worth getting on their mailing list, as you get advance notification of their *wonderful* sales. We're talking an entire spool of trim marked at $2. A HUGE bag of slightly tangled trim for just a buck or two. Definitely worth the trip, if only for the fun of going through the piles o' stuff. As with any business, the staff is as friendly as you are, so your mileage may vary. I've always found them to be *incredibly* helpful and friendly, and a smile and a pleasant attitude go a long way there. --Jean lyoness at panix.com _________________________ Jean Elizabeth Krevor Date: Sat, 28 Jun 1997 02:25:43 -0500 From: Gunnora Hallakarva To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: On Fur Trims The Vikings made use of a technique whereby tufts of combed wool were knotted into either the edge or the entire weft of a narrow-woven band to make a period "fake fur" trim. I have to wonder if later "fur" trims might not actually make use of this extremely simple, but extremely ornamental, technique. Gunnora Hallakarva Date: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 09:24:19 -0500 From: Gunnora Hallakarva To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Pre-1066 Embroidery and Trim Sael og heil! In following the pre-1066 embroidery discussion, I thought I'd add some info on embroidery and other trim/ornamentation techniques from the Viking Age and medieval Scandinavia. There are several "trim" treatments that are attested in the archaeological record. The first are "passements" which are, in effect, gold or silver lame cord (made of flat metal wire wrapped around silk, probably imported from the Orient or Middle East) where the cord is literally made into knotwork. HRM Alisha does an excellent modern adaptation of this. She draws out the design on a thick sheet of corrugated cardboard, using a different color for each strand. Then she starts constructing the interlace, using straight pins stuck through the lame into the cardboard to hold the intersections. Lastly, she paints the top side with that fabric stiffener stuff. This side, when dry, becomes the backside. The finished passement trim is couched down, with attention especially to fastening the interstices. The highest class, richest garments would have a band of silk samite attached to it, topped with either a passement or tablet-woven trim made of silk brocaded with gold or silver lame. This type of tablet weaving is the most common surviving trim, but probably belonged to fairly wealthy folks. The Vikings were able to get ready-made gold studs and gold sequins, which were used to ornament clothing. Applique was extremely common, not only the passements were appliqued, but also decorative cutout shapes of tabby or samite silk. As for embroidery, colors include woad blue, madder red, lichen purple, and an unidentified yellow (onionskin, perhaps), as well as walnut shell brown, and walnut+iron black. Check with a dye book or your local dyers to see what range of colors you can get with these dyes... it's pretty extensive, especially when you add in the possibilities achieved by various mordants (Vikings used alum (clubmoss), iron salts (copperas), and possibly copper sulfate achieved by dyeing in a copper pot) as well as the various combinations you can get by overdying with one or more colors. Embroidery stictches known during this period in Northern Europe include satin stitch, split stitch, and stem stich, plus a variety of couching techniques. One technique peculiar to the Vikings was a loop or mesh stitch called osenstich by Gejer, usually done in gold or silver. Embroidery designs that we have documented from grave finds includes: a pattern of animal heads on a servant's gown, the marvellous Mammen cloak, which used an interlace design of foliage or acanthus, with human masks appearing in the spaces, plus animals and birds in the pattern. There were also a number of finds where the embroidered designs are purely geometrical, such as a broken lozenge design. There are excellent pictures of a number of trim/embroidery techniques in two of the articles in: N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting, eds. Cloth and Clothing in Medieval=20 Europe. London: Heinemann. 1983. (1) Agnes Geijir, "Textile Finds from Birka" pp. 80-99 - has good photos of the passements and a metal-wire embroidered stag, plus good diagrams of osenstitch. Also has pattern drafts for tablet weaving drawn from period trim remains. (2) Margareta Nockert, "A Scandinavian Haberget?" pp. 100-107 - discusses a half-circle cloak found in Sweden ca 12th - 13th cent. C.E., includes a pattern draft for the tablet woven edging drawn from the actual trim remains. From the SCA's own textile archaeologist, Thora Sharptooth comes Compleat Anachronist #59, "Women's Garb in Northern Europe..." which is $4 from the Stock Clerk. Thora discusses the various topics I've mentioned above and has a couple of line drawings that are helpful. There are a couple of good sources that show reconstructions of the Mammen cloak. The best is in a children's book: Margeson, Susan M. Viking. Eyewitness Books. New York: Alfred=20 Knopf. 1004. ISBN 0-679-86002-9 on page 29. And for those with WWW access, see the excellent webpage on Viking embroidery by Mistress Thora Sharptooth at: http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/vikembroid.html Gunnora Hallakarva Herskerinde Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 12:29:36 -0500 From: Jeane Watson To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Trim at necklines [SCA] Working flat and straight trim around circular necklines is always difficult. Most trims are woven on the straight, not the bias. Therefore, you are always going to have difficulty getting "straight" trim to work in circles. The metallics are even more difficult because they will not stretch (and as you have found, trying to stretch metalics will break the threads). By what you have mentioned below, it sounds as if you may be letting the trim rest beyond the fabric of the neckline. This may not be comfortable for some people because trims can be "scratchy" against the skin. Also, think of trim as a way to create the illusion that the tunic has embroidered decoration. You would never see an embroidered band on a tunic extend the fabric of the garment in "points". The best suggestion I can make is to lay your trim on the fabric and make sure it is completely stitched down. When working trim around necklines, I do not fight and "force" the trim by stretching. I actually "pleat" the inside circle of the trim around the neckline (never beyond the fabric). I have found that when I make several very small pleats, the trim design does not look too terribly corrupted; also, if you pleat carefully, the design features can be manipulated to look purposeful and "snazzy". I always make sure that the trim is pressed and stitched down flat. Another way to work trim around a neckline is to make square necklines. When working with wide trims, this will almost certainly be your best choice. This will keep you from having to go around circles, which the trim is really not made to do. Yet another solution is to do a little embroidery instead of trim. Although it takes more time, embroidered decoration simply looks fantastic. If you have not tried embroidery, get someone to teach you two stitches: the chain stitch, and the stem stitch. With these two stitches, you can work some really beautiful knotwork around necklines and hems, and, it won't really take you that long! It sure beats fighting with trim, and, it costs a whole lot less money! E-mail me privately if you would like more information. THL Constanza C.X. de Valencia Shire Glaedenfeld Kingdom of Meridies Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 20:42:11 -0400 (EDT) From: Carol Thomas To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Trim at necklines [SCA] >Yet another solution is to do a little embroidery instead of trim. >Although it takes more time, embroidered decoration simply looks >fantastic. If you have not tried embroidery, get someone to teach you >two stitches: the chain stitch, and the stem stitch. With these two >stitches, you can work some really beautiful knotwork around necklines >and hems, and, it won't really take you that long! It sure beats >fighting with trim, and, it costs a whole lot less money! Couching down cords is another fast way to make knotwork around a neckline. It can really look impressive. Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 15:17:24 -0600 From: Nancy Lynch To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Trim at necklines [SCA] When using wide trim to go about a neckline one should probably: 1. choose a straight lined geometric neckline (triangle, rectangle, pentagon ...etc.) 2. make a straight lined shape around your circular shaped neckline. 3. use a bias type of trim or a braid that can be manipulated into a circular shape, 4. Learn to enjoy the look of a ruffled inner edge :) I have the advantage of having a walking foot machine and yet would not put anything very wide around the neckline. When I do want the look of wide trim I design an embroidery and stitch onto a seperate piece that is attached to the garment line a facing, only on the outside. If you want more info on this technique, let me know. Sonas ort! Mistress Lughbec ni Eoin Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 15:23:05 -0600 From: Nancy Lynch To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Trim at necklines [SCA] -Reply Rikki Mitman wrote: > I've had pretty good luck with steam-ironing it into submission. It takes a > little time and repetition, but it works for me. > > Teleri ........... Absolutely, depending upon the width of your trim and the tightness of the circle you are making. This method also can work quite well. :) If you stitch the outer edge down then lay the garment flat on the ironing board (hopefully you have not yet sewn up the sleeve or body edges so flat is still possible...) Then lots of steam with your iron does wonders to seize the inner edge. Lughbec Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 15:39:24 -0700 From: styrbjorn at juno.com (Skip Wilder) To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Trim at necklines [SCA] -Reply Regarding trim at necklines, I would offer an idea that I think has been overlooked: tablet woven trim, which Viking and I think most Celt and Anglo-Saxon persona would use, is more readily manipulated around the curve of a neckline. I think that this is because tablet woven trim uses thicker threads that aren't as tightly woven as modern machine woven synthetic trims. I would love to see more people using tablet woven trim, the 'real thing', than some modern trim that looks 'periodish'. Just an idea to keep in mind. Styrbjorn Ulfhamr Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 15:05:55 +0000 From: "Dan and Katherine Roberts" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Trim at necklines [SCA] -Reply On 24 Sep 98 at 15:39, Skip Wilder wrote: > Regarding trim at necklines, I would offer an idea that I think has > been overlooked: tablet woven trim, which Viking and I think most > Celt and Anglo-Saxon persona would use, is more readily manipulated > around the curve of a neckline. I think that this is because tablet > woven trim uses thicker threads that aren't as tightly woven as modern > machine woven synthetic trims. I would love to see more people using Acutally, I don't think using tablet woven trim would work quite as well as you think. Tablet weaving (assuming you are using 4 holed cards) is much thicker and tougher than any modern machine woven trim, just based on the structure of the weave, unless you are using very, very fine silk. Even then, I don't think the tablet woven trim is going to flex enough to make a smooth transition around a neckline. Granted this is based on my own personal experience, and on my own tablet weaving. The only way I could see this working is if you were somehow able to weave a curve into the piece. The tablet weaving I do comes out extremely tight, much tighter than even machine woven trims, so I know that none of what *I've* ever tablet woven would be usable in this manner (although you could probably tow a pickup truck with it... ). I think either way, machine made or tablet woven trim, will still have similar problems because they were woven with a straight edge. Fionna Barony of Raven's Fort, Ansteorra Subject: Re: ANST - SCA Gift ideas Date: Fri, 04 Dec 98 11:49:20 MST From: Tim Goins To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG >How about trim in the recipient's personal colors? There's a fine trim >merchant in Northkeep and a couple of 'em in Calontir :).< The trim merchants in NorthKeep are Momma Gwen and Reichart. They have a web page at: http://home.earthlink.net/~momagwen/index.htm Their e-mail is momagwen at earthlink.net or you can phone them at (918)355-1946. Hope I get some for Christmas! == Ld. Andrew Selwyn A Gentleman Of NorthKeep in Ansteorra, Cadet to Don James Navarre Subject: ANST - trim merchants Date: Mon, 03 May 99 17:24:05 MST From: "John Bush" To: >Does anyone have any websites for trim merchants? I used to have an >address for one that showed samples of the trim but have lost it. >Ascelyn Lady Ascelyn, You might try the following: http://home.earthlink.net/~momagwen/index.htm This is the web page for Eureka Trim, run by Moma Gwen and Reichart. They're from Northkeep, and merchant their wares at many Ansteorran events. I've been happy with their selection, prices, and service. May you find just the trim you're searching for! John of Trowbridge Shire of Mooneschadowe House of the Dancing Lion Subject: Re: ANST - trim merchants Date: Tue, 04 May 99 00:40:24 MST From: Tim Goins To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG >>You might try the following: http://home.earthlink.net/~momagwen/index.htm This is the web page for Eureka Trim, run by Moma Gwen and Reichart. They're from Northkeep, and merchant their wares at many Ansteorran events. I've been happy with their selection, prices, and service. May you find just the trim you're searching for! John of Trowbridge<< Hey folks I don't know if the page is still up at that address. You CAN reach them at: ofcoursey at juno.com They can tell you where/when the page is being moved and what events they'll be at. A.Selwyn (momma's bubba) Subject: ANST - Re: ansteorra V1 #1844 Date: Tue, 04 May 99 21:54:34 MST From: Gladwen at aol.com To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG For the person looking for websites for trim---try http://www.calontirtrim.com. They have a great site with MANY selections in thumbnails that can be enlarged for detail. If you remember them from the Gulf Wars--you will also remember their prices being well within affordable ranges for even the heavy metallic, wide trims. Gladwen Subject: Re: ANST - trim merchants Date: Thu, 06 May 99 11:29:31 MST From: "Franchesca Havas" To: Here are a few others: http://www.calontirtrim.com/ www.sewingcentral.com http://www.ginstrim.com/ http://www.dollymaker.com/trims.htm http://home.inreach.com/lindaw/gloves.htm http://www.cybertrims.com/ Sincerely, F. Havas Dallas, Texas Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] sewing trim help Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 11:42:25 -0800 (PST) From: Delphina Champeaux To: --- Jane Sitton wrote: > I cannot recall where I saw it, but someone once posted a method for sewing > trim on to curved edges, such as necklines and armholes, without having to > pleat it or make puckers. Does anyone have any hints? > > Madelina de Lyndesaye If the trim is on the bias (meaning that it will give a little when pulled) it's eaiser to put it on the curves. Most ribbon trim is not so I take a little running stitch on the inside of the curve so that the trim fits the neck line (or arm...) and then force the outside to lay as flat as possible. Lots of ironing helps too. There will be a pucker but with the running (gathering) stich it will be even. Hope that this helps. Delphina Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] sewing trim help Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 14:58:29 EST From: To: Personally, I sew my trim on before I sew up the seams, while it is flat. that way, no puckers. Innes Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] sewing trim help Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:43:06 -0600 From: "barb" To: If you will wet the trim and then pull it and sew it, it will generally follow the curve. It helps to iron it dry. This all depends on what kind of trim and if it has metallic threads be sure to iron it face down with a towel over it. That's how I was taught to do it and it hasn't failed me yet. Viscountess Kate Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] sewing trim help Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 18:04:45 -0600 From: Anthony Lackey To: Yes. First wash the trim (best in a net bag like you would use to wash stockings & pantyhose) and dry in the dryer. Then when the trim is dry, iron it flat. A great way to attach it to the surface you are sewing it to is Wonderunder (fusible stuff on a paper backing) which comes in rolls as well as sheets in fabric stores. Iron the fusible side to the wrong side of trim. When cool, peel off the paper backing. Lay the trim along the neckline or cuffs or hem edge at whatever place you want it to be. Do it slowly, a couple of inches at a time. When you come to where you began, lay a folded edge over the raw edge. This is the IMPORTANT part: When you are sewing the trim down, sew the side at the widest arc FIRST. This is critical. If you do not do this side first, no matter how carefully you've pressed it or pinned it or glued it, it WILL bunch up wrong and look bad. On necklines, it will change the neckline to look like a turtleneck. I kid you not. This means at necklines, you must sew the side farthest from the egde first, on sleeves and hems the side closest to the edge first. Then go up the folded edge where you joined to your beginning and sew the smaller arc, slowly easing the excess in or pleating if necessary at several points that are between the main design elements. This method also works with commercial bias tape. If you always sew the top of the arc first, you will have a nice trim effect. Baroness Catrin Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] sewing trim help-trim link Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 19:03:37 EST From: To: For those of us sewing at the last min. as usual before an event. Here is the trim link that will either inspire you or depress you. Depression sets in when you realize that the trim on the web would match better than what you have but it needs to be done tomarrow. http://www.calontirtrim.com/ "Calontir Trim - Fantastic Trims and Fantastic Prices - Fabric Trims of All Type" Donnel From: elizabeth at crouchet.com Date: November 13, 2006 10:37:51 PM CST To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Fw: Cheap Trim This is a great site with great trim, check out the metal shank buttons too, they sometimes have good ones. Be aware that the minimum order is like $65. So get with friends to place the orders. Claire On 13 Nov 2006 at 7:13, Virginia Gatling wrote: > Check out the site www.cheeptrims.com. Trims can be found as low as > 10cents a yard. the attached site is directly to the Jacquard Ribbon > site. > For those who asked the place where I get my ink for the printer is > www.Inksoutlet.com site also in attachment. > > Regina To: SCA Newcomers list Subject: Re: Where to buy Tablet Weave for tunic trim?? Posted by: "Grainne ingen Lugdach" grainneinatlantia at yahoo.com grainneinatlantia Date: Fri Dec 11, 2009 7:33 am ((PST)) <<< Does anyone know a good place to buy /commision Tablet weave? Will attempt to learn how to make my own (when time permits) but im just getting started in the SCA and need to get some garb ready for events etc.. >>> http://whitewolfandphoenix.com/ This is the website for White Wolf and the Phoenix, run by Master Herveus and MIstress Megan of Atlantia. Mistress Megan makes tablet- and inkle-woven trims in various fibers. They also sell weaving supplies when you're ready to try your hand at your own. I've purchased trim, belt favors and various supplies from them over the past few years. Quality work and very nice folks! Slan, Grainne ingen Lugdach Shire of Roxbury Mill Atlantia To: SCA Newcomers list Subject: Re: Where to buy Tablet Weave for tunic trim?? Posted by: "julian wilson" smnco37 at yahoo.co.uk smnco37 Date: Fri Dec 11, 2009 9:12 am ((PST)) If it trim you want, which is very difficult to distinguish from tablet-weaving-by-hand, have a look at the huge selection of trims carried by House of Anoria. Many of their designs are based - so I was told - upon SCA-period originals. When I was starting in the SCA with my Lady in 2005, I found Anoria very useful. Matthewe Baker Drachenwald. To: SCA Newcomers list Subject: Re: Where to buy Tablet Weave for tunic trim?? Posted by: "Kyla" skycat at tds.net skycat_4 Date: Fri Dec 11, 2009 3:50 pm ((PST)) > For trim, calontir trim is also an excellent resource. Calontir trim has lots and lots of beautiful trim, it is true, but none of it is tablet woven. Or at least not any time I've ever seen them at an event - including the last two Pennsics, and last Saturday at Boar's Head in Northshield. It is all machine made, and mostly polyester or nylon. Tabitha Pennywarden Ravenslake, Midlands Middle Kingdom To: SCA Newcomers list Subject: Re: Where to buy Tablet Weave for tunic trim?? Posted by: "bronwynmgn at aol.com" bronwynmgn at aol.com brangwayna Date: Fri Dec 11, 2009 7:51 pm ((PST)) We have a relatively local merchant (in Atlantia, maybe) called White Wolf and Phoenix that do both a number of standard patterns and take commissions. Very nice work. I don't know if they have a web presence or not. Brangwayna Morgan Shire of Silver Rylle, East Kingdom Lancaster, PA From: Liz Clark ‪‬ Date: Thu, May 27, 2010 at 1:47 AM Subject: [EK] Fwd: [Ealdormere] Closure of a favourite SCA trim outlet To: East Kingdom I took this from Dame Tsivia ..... I have just verified that the Trim-Tex wholesale/retail store in Williamsport PA is closing after June 11th fairly permanently. This is the company which manufactures so many of the trims and braids/piping dear to SCA'ers (and one of the sources for Calontir Trim). For decades many of us have gone to or from Pennsic via Trim-Tex, but sadly, this is no longer to be. They will be moving to an online system for now (Trim-Tex sold their retail outlet to a private individual last November, and she's found that this business isn't working with her young kids as well as she had hoped) at www.trimtexmillstore.com. (At the moment she's not loaded many of the trims onto the site, but there are a few of interest to SCA'ers.) So if you were wanting to scoop up trim at clearance prices, this *IS* the time to do it. From: Steven Boyd Date: May 27, 2010 9:21:05 AM CDT To: CALONTIR at listserv.unl.edu Subject: Re: [CALONTIR] Closure of a favourite SCA trim outlet Fear not. I have made arrangements to continue carrying their stock at current prices. Andrixos 
Calontir Trim <<< I have just verified that the Trim-Tex wholesale/retail store in Williamsport PA is closing after June 11th fairly permanently. This is the company which manufactures so many of the trims and braids/piping dear to SCA'ers (and one of the sources for Calontir Trim). For decades many of us have gone to or from Pennsic via Trim-Tex, but sadly, this is no longer to be. >>> Edited by Mark S. Harris trim-msg Page 24 of 24