16C-Rap-Shirt-art

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16C-Rap-Shirt-art - 8/21/18

"How to make a late 16c shirt with puncture resistant gussets for rapier combat" by Lady Alisandre de la Chapelle. Includes photos for each step.

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NOTICE -

This article was added to this set of files, called Stefan's Florilegium, with the permission of the author.

These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

While the author will likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.

Thank you,

Mark S. Harris...AKA:..Stefan li Rous

stefan at florilegium.org

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How to make a late 16c shirt with puncture resistant gussets for rapier combat

by Lady Alisandre de la Chapelle

Midwinter Arts & Sciences February 13, 2016

The pattern is adapted from pattern #9 from Patterns of Fashion 4.1 a shirt c.1580-1620 from an extant garment (37-1962) at the Warwickshire Museum Service. Level of historical accuracy on construction is medium: I have allowed for machine sewing of quilted gussets, long seams and gathering. You may adjust for hand sewing these sections as you like.

The shirt is intended to be loose so no alteration of the chest should be needed. The collar and cuffs can be made smaller or larger as necessary without changing the body of the shirt, sleeves or gussets.

You can make the sleeve pieces longer then you cut them out if you think you need more length. Note: the narrowness of the sleeves is because the original shirt was made to have a doublet sleeve over it.

What you will need:

· 3 yards of fabric for shirt

I used fabric-store.com 019 and it worked nicely. Any mid weight linen or cotton should work.

· 3/8 yard for gusset interlining

I have had a marshal pass the following combinations of gusset layers on the drop test:

· 2 layers of IL019 (5.4 oz), 2 layers of 4C22 (7.1 oz)

· 2 layers of IL019 (5.4 oz), 1 layer of IL095 (10.1 oz)

Other combinations and fabrics will pass, if you're concerned, get them drop tested before you make the shirt.

· 3-4 yards of narrow cord for ties OR 6-9 sets hooks and eyes

You can make self-ties out of left over fabric, use grosgrain ribbon or narrow cotton cord (purchased, lucet made or fingerloop braided) or hooks and eyes.

1 Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 4. London: Macmillian London Limited, 2008, Print. ISBN 978-0896762626

Cutting Layout

Step 1: Underarm gussets

1-1. Start by marking a 1⁄2" seam allowance around all sides of 1 gusset cut from the shirt fabric. This is the bottom layer and should be considered right side down.

1-2. Mark 1⁄2" around all edges of the interlining(s) and trim that 1⁄2" off

1-3. Put the interlining(s) on top of the bottom layer, making sure that all sides of the interlining(s) do not extend past the 1⁄2" mark on the bottom layer.

1-4. Top the stack with a second gusset of shirt fabric, marked 1⁄2" in on all edges, pin all layers together then baste around all sides. Basting makes the layers wiggle less when you quilt them together

1-5. Starting at 1 corner, run diagonal lines of stitches 1 presser foot length apart making sure you stay out of the 1⁄2" seam allowance (use the marks you made to know where to stop and start each line)

The quilted gusset should look like this. Repeat 1-1 through 1-5 for all gussets.

Step 2: Sleeves

2.1 Stitch gussets to sleeves

2-2. Press open and trim the seam allowance on the gusset side of the seam.

2-3. Fold the other half of the seam in half and press it back onto the gusset. Catch stitch the fold down. (or use your preferred method for felling seams.) This method will be used on most other seams in the shirt.

Repeat 2-1 to 2-3 for all gussets

Step 3: Preparing the collar and cuffs

3-1 Hem both ends of ruff piece for collar/cuffs. The selvage edge will be your finished top edge for the ruff itself. Once the piece is hemmed, mark 1⁄2" in from each end.

3-2 Run 1 row of long gathering stitches at the 1⁄2" line. Run 2 more sets of gathering stitches closer to the raw edge.

3-3 Gather the ruff until it fits to the collar piece, keeping the last 1/2 "of each end free. Pin the ruff on top of the collar piece and at least 1 interlining piece. Stitch on the 1/2 "line.

3-4 Press seam open, trim seam and press seam down towards raw edge.

3-5 To attach the ties, cut 4 pieces of cord/ribbon/braid 18"-24" long. Mark 1⁄2" up from the raw edge and pin 1 piece of cord close to the ruff seam. Pin the other equidistant between the first cord and the seamline mark at the 1⁄2". Stitch over each cord repeatedly to secure, making sure you are stitching less than 1/2 "from the edge.

Repeat for the 2 pieces of cord on the other side of the collar making sure the cords on each side are even when the collar is closed.

Repeat 3-1 to 3-5 for both cuffs if you are planning attaching the ties the same way.

If you are planning on using the cuff closure of the extant shirt, stop once you have completed step 3-4.

Step 4: Attach shirt collar to shirt body

4-1 Cut the neck open on the line, then cut 6" down the center front. Put a very narrow hem on both sides of the center opening.

4-2. Hem 2 edges of 1 neck gusset and whip stitch the neck gusset into the corner of the neck opening. This view is of the wrong side of gusset 1 on the inside of the shirt neck.

4-3. Hem 2 edges of another neck gusset and stitch it, right side up over the raw seam of the first gusset. (this view is the right side of gusset 2 on inside of the shirt neck)

Repeat 4-2 & 4-3 for other the neck gussets on the other side.

4-4 Run 1 row of long gathering stitches at the 1⁄2" line all the way around the neck opening. This will include stitching over the raw end of the neck gussets on each side. Run 2 more sets of gathering stitches closer to the raw edge.

4-5 Gather neckline to fit the collar piece.

Fold the seam allowance on both ends of the collar back and pin collar to shirt body right sides together.

4-6 Fold the seam allowance on both ends of the collar back and pin collar to shirt body right sides together. Stitch on the 1⁄2" line, press seam open, trim seam allowance and press seam up towards collar. You may need to remove the gathering threads if they remain visible.

4-7 Mark and press a 1⁄2" seam allowance on all side of the collar lining. Pin lining to inside of collar, wrong sides together. Catch stitch the lining to the collar, taking care that the stitches aren't visible on the outside of the collar.

Step 5 Attaching the sleeves to the shirt body

5-1. Fold the shirt in half, length wise to find shoulder line. Match shoulder line to mid-point of sleeve with gussets right sides together. Pin and stitch at the 1⁄2" line. Trim seam allowance and fell seam as in 2-3.

5-2 Put a narrow hem on the first 4" of the sleeve end. If your gloves are particularly short, make sure that this opening will be shorter than your gloves.

5-3 Starting by lining up the underarm gussets, pin sleeve down to the 4" hem and gusset down to shirt hem. Stitch on the 1⁄2" line & press seam open. Do not trim seam allowance.

5-4 Press each side of seam allowance in towards the seam then press one side over the other so that only the folded edges are showing.

5-5 Whip stitch the edge of the seam allowance, making a faux French seam. Repeat 5-1 through 5-5 for other side seam.

Step 6: Attaching the cuffs

Use an awl to open the weave of the fabric.

Using buttonhole twist thread, whip around the opening.

Repeat for other side of cuff and other cuff. Thread cord through eyelets.

Alternatively, attach ties to the cuffs in step 3-5 and close cuffs in the same manner as the neck.

Step 7: Hem

Fold and press the bottom edge up 1⁄2" then fold and press up another half inch.

Step 8: Enjoy your new shirt!

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Copyright 2016 by Alison Petrisek. <alpetrisek at gmail.com>. Permission is granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is credited. Addresses change, but a reasonable attempt should be made to ensure that the author is notified of the publication and if possible receives a copy.

If this article is reprinted in a publication, please place a notice in the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.