Title: blksm-anvils-msg
Subject: Blacksmithing anvils.
Author: Edite by Mark Harris
Last saved by: Mark S. Harris
Keywords: anvils, blacksmithing, safety, size, material

blksm-anvils-msg – 9/9/15

Blacksmithing anvils. sources.

NOTE: See also the files: blacksmithing-msg, blksm-forges-msg, casting-msg, blksm-welding-msg, bladesmithing-msg, metals-msg, metalworking-FAQ, metalworking-msg, enameling-msg.

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                                          Stefan at florilegium.org
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From: dwbutler at mtu.edu (Daniel W. Butler-Ehle)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: 16 Dec 1996 20:47:44 -0500
Organization: Michigan Technological University

Joe Stubenrauch (yeti at linex.com) wrote:
:         1) Where can I get an anvil for a sane price?

Discount hardware mail-order houses like Northern Hydraulic and 
Harbor Freight have them on occasion for $0.75/pound or thereabouts.
Probably not ferrier-quality, but you just need something to bang 
on that is more suitable than the railroad track everyone's trying 
to convince you to use, right?

:         2) Are there places where I would be able to buy a used anvil
:                 for a reasonable price?

Just dumb luck. Keep checking estate sales. See if your retired aunt 
might have one hiding in her basement.  

Ulfin

From: "Dennis O'Connor" <dmoc at primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: 17 Dec 1996 00:07:01 -0700
Organization: Intel Corporation

Joe Stubenrauch <yeti at linex.com> wrote: 
:         I have a keen and developing interest in blacksmithing.  However, the
: local area I am in is devoid of SCA black-smith's (and indeed, smith's at 
: all).  So, I am whisking off to the library to do some more research.  
: 
:         1) Where can I get an anvil for a sane price?
:         2) Are there places where I would be able to buy a used anvil
:                 for a reasonable price?

Look for places that sell supplies to farriers (aka horseshoers).
If necessary, look up horseshoeing in the phone book and ask
a few farriers, if you can reach them.  (We always wind up
leaving messages for ours, he's always working.)  Beware
cheap anvils, tho !

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: tip* at ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Organization: Ohio University
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 02:19:49 GMT

In article <E2J4r9.7rB at linex6.linex.com>, yeti at linex.com (Joe Stubenrauch)
wrote:
>         I have a keen and developing interest in blacksmithing.  However, the
> local area I am in is devoid of SCA black-smith's (and indeed, smith's at 
> all).  So, I am whisking off to the library to do some more research.

>         1) Where can I get an anvil for a sane price?

This is NOT easy.   You can get new cast iron anvils without a steel face. 
These are of limited utility.  Or, you can haunt flea markets and junk
shops, hoping to find one for sale... this is how I got my first one.  Or,
you can take a trip to an anvil rich area of the country (Ohio, Indiana,
Virginia), and find lots of them for sale.  (You didn't say where you were
from).

>         2) Are there places where I would be able to buy a used anvil
>                 for a reasonable price?

See above... a buck a pound.

Tom

From: jaeger at 3lefties.com (Eric Kervina)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 14:25:54 -0700
Organization: INET of New Mexico

In article <E2J4r9.7rB at linex6.linex.com>, yeti at linex.com says...
>         I have a keen and developing interest in blacksmithing.  
> 
>         1) Where can I get an anvil for a sane price?

A real, serviceable anvil at a sane price?  Never seen such an animal, 
at least not a new one.  However, for small work, a serviceable 
substitute can be made out of a piece of railroad rail.

>         2) Are there places where I would be able to buy a used anvil
>                 for a reasonable price?

If you live near a rural area, you might check out estate auctions.  I 
have seen a few anvils go for as little as $50.  They are not commonly to 
be found, though. 

From: rhayes at powerup.com.au (Robin Hayes)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: 17 Dec 1996 03:40:30 GMT

In article <E2J4r9.7rB at linex6.linex.com>, of Mon, 16 Dec 1996 23:18:45 
GMT, Joe Stubenrauch of yeti at linex.com says...
>        I have a keen and developing interest in blacksmithing.  However, the
>local area I am in is devoid of SCA black-smith's (and indeed, smith's at 
>all).  So, I am whisking off to the library to do some more research. 

Try the knifemaking magizines. You could try contacting the armourers thru 
the SCA web pages, and see if you get any pointers to books, organisations 
there. Do web searches...

>   However, the books I have encountered there are a little out of date
>(published in the 50's and 60's) and don't have all the info that I need.

Often, the older the better. Just find more books.

>        So here are my questions:
>
>        1) Where can I get an anvil for a sane price?
>        2) Are there places where I would be able to buy a used anvil
>                for a reasonable price?

It depends on what work you want to do. If you want to do heavy working, 
then you will need a fair sized anvil (100lbs or so or more). If you are 
doing light work, you may not need a "normal" anvil at all. You can use a 
heavy lump of iron/steel scrap such as a "I" or "H" beam (depends on your 
point of view) or a piece of railway (or tram) line. You can buy small 
"craft" anvils, often intended for things such as leather working, etc.

If you want to make small spoons and knives, then you only need a smallish 
anvil.

Early period anvils were sometimes stone... you need to be sure of the 
right type of stone, a hard volcanic type will last longer than shale, but 
depending on what you want to do... :-) You can even (briefly) use a 
hardwood block for some tasks, especially cold working of plate...

You may be able to get something useful for nothing. But depending on your 
area, there may be possibilities of second hand ones. You will have to use 
your wits as to where they would be advertised locally.

Robin

From: "James D. Logan/Jane Sitton-Logan" <hammer at mail.startext.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 08:03:24 -0800

Robin Hayes wrote:
> Joe Stubenrauch of yeti at linex.com says...
> >
> >        I have a keen and developing interest in blacksmithing.  However the
> >local area I am in is devoid of SCA black-smith's (and indeed, smith's at
> >all).  So, I am whisking off to the library to do some more research.
> 
> Try the knifemaking magizines. You could try contacting the armourers thru
> the SCA web pages, and see if you get any pointers to books, organisations
> there. Do web searches...
> 
> >        However, the books I have encountered there are a little out of date
> >(published in the 50's and 60's) and don't have all the info that I need.
> 
> Often, the older the better. Just find more books.
> 
> >        So here are my questions:
> >
> >        1) Where can I get an anvil for a sane price?
> >        2) Are there places where I would be able to buy a used anvil
> >                for a reasonable price?
> 
> It depends on what work you want to do. If you want to do heavy working,
> then you will need a fair sized anvil (100lbs or so or more). If you are
> doing light work, you may not need a "normal" anvil at all. You can use a
> heavy lump of iron/steel scrap such as a "I" or "H" beam (depends on your
> point of view) or a piece of railway (or tram) line. You can buy small
> "craft" anvils, often intended for things such as leather working, etc.

If you intend to move much Iron (make a pair of tongs heavy enough to make 
hammers with) you will need an anvil of 100+ lbs anvils are not cheap and new 
ones are very dear indeed. So you should be careful about your choice of anvils 
and the condition that they are in. Anything smaller than 100 lbs will hamper 
your work. Any mark or surface flaw in either your hammer or your anvil will be
transfered to the work.

> If you want to make small spoons and knives, then you only need a smallish
> anvil.

Horse feathers.

> Early period anvils were sometimes stone... you need to be sure of the
> right type of stone, a hard volcanic type will last longer than shale, but
> depending on what you want to do... :-) You can even (briefly) use a
> hardwood block for some tasks, especially cold working of plate...

I do a lot of work on wood blocks including cutting swageing forming etc.
and I work it hot. Especially for armouring as the wood does not pinch
cut or mark the surface of the plate.

> Robin

Laird Seamus Donnacadh Loganaich an gabhain
Or Logan the smith for those with nae Gaedhlig.

From: rhayes at powerup.com.au (Robin Hayes)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: 20 Dec 1996 04:15:34 GMT

James D. Logan/Jane Sitton-Logan of hammer at mail.startext.net says...
>Robin Hayes wrote:
>> 
>> In article <E2J4r9.7rB at linex6.linex.com>, of Mon, 16 Dec 1996 23:18:45
>> GMT, Joe Stubenrauch of yeti at linex.com says...
>> >
>> >My Ladies and Lords,
>> >
>> >        I have a keen and developing interest in blacksmithing.  

<SNIP>
 
>> If you want to make small spoons and knives, then you only need a smallish
>> anvil.
>
>Horse feathers.

Well, I am always prepared to defer to greater knowledge and experience, 
but your mileage may vary depending on the brand of horse feathers you use. 
There are tricks to using a smaller anvil (i.e.) the lump of iron. The mass 
is important in order to provide a resistance to allow the under surface to 
be struck back and work that surface. More mass, or allowing the mass of 
iron to be mounted on Ironback stump (a native Australian wood, bloody 
solid stuff very hard and rigid) to effectively beef up the mass of the 
anvil can give satisfactory results for smallish objects. If you want to 
work large lumps of meatal, I agree with my learned friend, bigger is 
better, and indeed small is useless for large things.

I know local (Australian) smiths who take small portable forges and small 
anvils to fairs to work with. They make only small objects such as knives 
from the blade of large grass mowers that are towed behind tractors, and 
spoons.
 
I should perhaps have added to my original posting : "for a start until you 
get something bigger". I will agree that bigger is usually better in terms 
of the anvil, but I was talking to someone who alleged he had no contact, 
and was totally lacking knowledge.

<snip>

Safe Hammering...
Robin

From: david.razler at worldnet.att.net (David M. Razler)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 02:52:00 GMT

dwbutler at mtu.edu (Daniel W. Butler-Ehle) wrote:

| Discount hardware mail-order houses like Northern Hydraulic and 
| Harbor Freight have them on occasion for $0.75/pound or thereabouts.
| Probably not ferrier-quality, but you just need something to bang 
| on that is more suitable than the railroad track everyone's trying 
| to convince you to use, right?

While I have had no experience with the made-in-China anvils sold by the above
firms, my experience with their other metal goods and other Chinese tools
tells me to look at their anvils very carefully before committing.

Fragile, large-grained cast iron is used in places where a much higher-quality
steel is the proper material. From a distance, it appears at least some of the
Chinese anvils I have seen consist of a plate of steel on a poor cast-iron
body. I fear that even just banging on one of these anvils could crack it in
no time.

                                dmr
David M. Razler
david.razler at worldnet.att.net

From: dwbutler at mtu.edu (Daniel W. Butler-Ehle)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: 21 Dec 1996 14:24:15 -0500
Organization: Michigan Technological University

David M. Razler (david.razler at worldnet.att.net) wrote:
: dwbutler at mtu.edu (Daniel W. Butler-Ehle) wrote:
: 
: | Discount hardware mail-order houses like Northern Hydraulic and 
: | Harbor Freight have them on occasion for $0.75/pound or thereabouts.
: | Probably not ferrier-quality, but you just need something to bang 
: | on that is more suitable than the railroad track everyone's trying 
: | to convince you to use, right?
: 
: While I have had no experience with the made-in-China anvils sold by the above
: firms, my experience with their other metal goods and other Chinese tools
: tells me to look at their anvils very carefully before committing.
: 
: Fragile, large-grained cast iron is used in places where a much higher-quality
: steel is the proper material. From a distance, it appears at least some of the
: Chinese anvils I have seen consist of a plate of steel on a poor cast-iron
: body. I fear that even just banging on one of these anvils could crack it in
: no time.

Yep, those are the ones. Pieces of junk.  Not hard enough for continued 
use, but they're heavy enough and are more or less the right shape.
May be just about right for a hobby that you might spend eighty hours on 
during the first couple months that you get into it and then only 
0-15 hours per year after that.  I'm gonna back off a bit on my 
discounting of anvils made from rail, but those I know who have 
used them for armoring have almost immediately abandoned them for 
*anything* else.  They do work for many, though. And the price is 
good when they can be gotten (although "cheap" and "legal" don't 
always go together well on this). And they are neither flat nor 
hardened.

One thing you'll probably want in an anvil is a hardie hole (the
square hole for holding fullers, swages, clamps, etc.).  Cheapo 
anvils probably don't have 'em; rail anvils never do.  A pritchel 
hole is certainly handy too, but not tough to improvise.

Yes, cheapo anvils are crap steel.  They won't stand up to 
years of farrier work.  But they may stand up to a lifetime of 
causual armoring (i.e., you're not making a business out of it).  
It depends on what you want to do with it.  The face will lose 
flatness, but how flat do you need it to be?  The hardy hole 
might wear out before the face becomes unusable.  And when it 
wears out, it becomes your travel anvil (and you trade your car 
for a quality anvil).

I met a professional metalworker (and SCA armourer) in SE Michigan 
who has a very old anvil (~200 years?).  It's a block anvil, was 
probably never hardened in any modern sense.  When the face became 
too sunken to use (like it has a 3cm dip in it), one of the 
previous owners just turned it on its side and remounted on the 
stump. It's still perfectly fine for some things, but perfectly 
wrong for others.  Cheapo import anvils probably aren't much 
worse.

A word of caution on buying old anvils. . .I was once witnessed 
some haggling over an anvil at an estate sale (the price was 
already way too high, but I followed it with interest anyway).  
The face was shot, but the auctioneer insisted that all you 
would have to do to make it "like new" would be give someone in 
a machine shop a few bucks to mill it, dress it, and reharden it.
I've never actually tried this, but I highly suspect it would be 
much less economical than merely "a few bucks".  You get what 
you pay for--or less.

I posted earlier about using a handheld propane torch to make 
tools. I didn't intend to imply that that would be any kind of 
longterm substitute for a forge, just that it worked well 
enough to give me a bit of a taste for smithing without the 
investment in equipment.  (I already had a vise, some locking 
pliers, and a grinding wheel.)  

I wouldn't go as far as to recommend it because without 
sufficient research on proper smithing, improvisation leaves 
plenty room to develop bad habits. But I was surprised to 
discover that it really was quite adequate for hot working,
annealing/hardening, and tempering the forming stakes and cold 
chisels I was making.  The cost of propane cylinders would have 
added up quickly if I had continued with the method, but in the 
shortterm, it was certainly cheaper than buying the real stuff.
I was just dabbling anyway.

I've also used a wood furnace (with forced air underneath) as 
a forge for small knives. It was a bit of a stretch to do blades 
in it, but it would have been more than adequate for making 
nails.

Earlier I commented on the use of an old barbecue as a forge. 
I assumed that the poster meant the cast-steel Habatchi-style
BBQ from the 70s, not the pressed-sheet Weber-style grill that's 
more common today (these would be outright wrong). If it's free
(disposable...Dad doesn't need it back), it might make a suitable 
firepot for the shortterm, just use it in a place where it won't 
be a problem if it breaks (and be prepared for when it does).  

If the poster was referring to a permanent, outdoor barbie made 
of brick, I don't know...it should be able to take the heat, but 
whether it can be converted into a suitable forge would depend, 
I suppose, on the geometry.

I'm ashamed that when asked what equipment is absolutely necessary 
that I said nothing about safety equipment.  Fortunately, someone 
provided good suggestions on the matter.  Also, I missed 
mentioning a grinding wheel, which I find essential (but you 
might not).

Sincerely yore's,
Ulfin

From: jhrisoulas at aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvi refacing
Date: 23 Dec 1996 14:58:55 GMT

dwbutler at mtu.edu (Daniel W. Butler-Ehle) writes:
>A word of caution on buying old anvils. . .I was once witnessed 
>some haggling over an anvil at an estate sale (the price was 
>already way too high, but I followed it with interest anyway).  
>The face was shot, but the auctioneer insisted that all you 
>would have to do to make it "like new" would be give someone in 
>a machine shop a few bucks to mill it, dress it, and reharden it.
>I've never actually tried this, but I highly suspect it would be 
>much less economical than merely "a few bucks".  You get what 
>you pay for--or less.

Ulfin:

If that salesman actually believed that you could get that done for a "few
bucks" I would like to know where!

I have done a few refacing jobs and they are NOT EASY.. I have given up on
the one piece face technique as it is far too difficult to get the anvil
face to a proper welding heat using my facilities.  I have however had
excellent results using hard facinmg rod and a very high output arc
welder.  You simply add layer after layer of the hard face rod to build up
the tickness to approx 3/8" thick..Now this takes some considerable
time...After that is done, you do have to heat treat the face...All that
is needed is to bring the face up to a medium Cherry Red and let air cool
and you are hard..  Then a quick clean up with a grinder and you all set.

The hardest part of doing this is the heat treating as it requires the
entire face to be heated and on a 200# anvil that can be a little
difficult....  I have done this one 5 anvils so far with no problems....

The best bet is to simply keep looking for a decent one...But if you can't
find one, refacing can be done...

Your servant,
Atar Bakhtar OL

From: rhayes at powerup.com.au (Robin Hayes)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: 25 Dec 1996 04:58:58 GMT

jhrisoulas at aol.com of jhrisoulas at aol.com says...
>Please let me interject a few words gleaned from a couple of years
>experience in this sort of thing:
>
>(Robin Hayes) writes:

<Large SNIP of stuff concerning size of anvil and mentioning Iron bark 
stumps to mount the anvil on to increase the mass.>

>(on a personal note: where can I obtain a sample of this  Ironback
>wood????)

A brief note on Ironbark...

I spoke about size of anvils, and that it was possible to use a smallish 
anvil.

I said Quote

There are tricks to using a smaller anvil (i.e.) the lump of iron. The mass 
is important in order to provide a resistance to allow the under surface to 
be struck back and work that surface. More mass, or allowing the mass of 
iron to be mounted on an Ironback stump (a native Australian wood, bloody 
solid stuff very hard and rigid) to effectively beef up the mass of the 
anvil can give satisfactory results for smallish objects.

Unquote

The other day, at a contry markets display place, I was looking at working 
blacksmith shop with a forge where a 50 lb anvil was set on a large piece 
of iron bark sunk many feet in the ground. It works as well as the 100 lb 
anvil at the forge on the other side of the shop. The stump was between 2-3 
ft in diameter. The anvil is securely pinned to the stump.

You want a timber that will NOT bounce when struck....

The 2-3 ft diameter block is set some feet 3/4/5, how deep a hole do you 
want, and how big is your stump... in the ground, and the hole compacted. 
The anvil is pinned to the top, bringing it to working height. If you can 
get a lump 3 or 4 feet in diameter, and high enough to mount your anvil on 
while the block rests on a concrete floor, you can almost get the same 
results, because a block this size is so heavy I cannnot lift it, 
definitely heavier than a 100 lb anvil on its own...

The Good Doctor asked what is this ironbark wood, and where would he get 
it...

Well...

Australians have a tradition of wood so hard that it shatters axes, heavy, 
almost imperviouis to weathering, etc. Thus "Ironbark" is more of a common 
name, which may apply to several different types of native Australian 
Woods.

Now for some hard facts...

I picked up Johnson on Wood [2] (a superb 275 page book with many period 
references with pictures  including pictures of a first century wooden doll 
and an Egyptian ride on horse AD200 - P212), and of course, it does not 
recognise the slang Australian term.

Encl Brit [1] has a sizeable relevant entry on Ironwood. Briefly, there are 
many types of this sort of timber, in the US it mentions the most widely 
distributed as being hop hornbeam, and blue birch. ther are many others. Of 
course, no refernce to Australian timbers...

Back to Johnson [2]... it mentions Ironwood, and gives examples. I am not 
an expert, but from vague memories, and some searching I believe Australian 
"Ironwood" is in the Eucalyptus family, some of them being Blackbutt (so 
hard it cannot be nailed, but must be drilled first), Jarrah, and Karri, 
quantities of logs of which were exported internationally for bridges, 
piers and wharves. 

The classic definition of Iron wood is that it sinks in water, it is so 
heavy. Consequently, is is so dense, that it will absorb the shock of the 
hammer blow and not "kick back", adding to the inertial mass of the anvil.

You may be lucky... or you may find a suitable timber locally. Little 
scraps are useless, you want MASS in that block of wood... :-)

~~~~~
Ref:
(1) Encl Brit 1961 (my copy) Vol 12 Pg 675  entry on Ironwood.

(2) The International Book of Wood - Hugh Johnson 1976/79/80
Mitchell Beazley Publishers Ltd
87-89 Shaftesbury Avenue London
ISBN 085533 081 3 Hardbound
ISBN 085533 182 8 Paperback

Robin

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.org.sca
From: Michael Corman <cormam at pfizer.com>
Subject: Re: Anvil Wanted
Organization: Pfizer, Inc
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 17:54:39 GMT

Bill McNutt wrote:
> bjm10 at cornell.edu says...
> >Friend of mine uses a piece of railroad track, top planed and polished, as
> >the face of an "anvil".
> 
> It's looking like I'm going to have to start there, but I was really hoping to
> do some hot cutting and I need a hardie hole for that.

I realize this probably isn't the way you want to go, but it is possible 
to get just the hardie hole (no anvil) from some of the larger jewelry 
tool suppliers (for example Rio Grande Jewelry Supply). These can be 
mounted to, say, a section of tree trunk and provide a holder for your 
hardie stakes. They are much cheaper and easier to find than an anvil, 
but of course they don't have the striking surface. Unfortunately, it 
seems that most people with good anvils know what they've got.

Michael die Fledarmus
Mike Corman
cormam at pfizer.com

From: Lughaid at pacbell.net (Michael Horgan [Lughaid])
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvil Wanted
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 20:58:40 GMT

Have you guys checked out Ernie Leimkuhler's design on the Metal Web
News site at http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/howto/anvil/anvil.html ?
It's a good starting point, and probably cheaper than all but the most
broken down chinese anvil you'll find. 

>Bill McNutt (mcnutt at web.ce.utk.edu) wrote:
>: I'm in the market for a good, hobby-quality anvil.  I'm looking for one with 
>: a tempered face, and pritchell and hardie hole.  Something in the 80 - 100 
>: lb range.  None of this chinese-made-mild-steel-barely-better-than-an-ingot 
>: I keep finding.
>: 
>: Can anyone help me find a vendor, or better yet, a used one?
>
>Me too, please!
>
>Nahum

Michael Horgan (Lughaid at pacbell.net)
http://users.aol.com/Lughaid

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.org.sca
From: kinsler at bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler)
Subject: Re: Anvil Wanted
Organization: Ohio University, Russ College of Engineering and Technology
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 21:18:12 GMT

Michael Horgan [Lughaid] <Lughaid at pacbell.net> wrote:
>Have you guys checked out Ernie Leimkuhler's design on the Metal Web
>News site at http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/howto/anvil/anvil.html ?
>It's a good starting point, and probably cheaper than all but the most
>broken down chinese anvil you'll find. 

Is this the one that he cut out of 6" steel plate with a cutting torch 
and then ground for about ten days?  I'm sure that he made a splendid 
anvil, but the article, which is well worth reading, convinced me that 
it's a good idea to make anvils in an anvil factory.  

                                        Mark Kinsler
                                 heading for the rail yard w/a cutting torch

From: thorgrim at naxs.com (Thorgrim inn islendingr)
Subject: Re: Anvil Wanted/Hardie Holder
Organization: Nant-y-Derwyddon, Meridies
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 97 22:31:22 GMT
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.org.sca

> It's looking like I'm going to have to start there, but I was really hoping
> to do some hot cutting and I need a hardie hole for that.

You can find one on page 111 of the current centaur forge catalog.
Their phone number is 414-763-9175

Thorgrim

From: jeanclaude at bham.net
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: WANTED - ANVIL
Date: 15 Jan 1997 11:19:58 -0800

In article <5artd8$98n at gaia.ns.utk.edu>,
  mcnutt at web.ce.utk.edu (Bill McNutt) wrote:
> I'm in the market for a good, hobby-quality anvil.  
(snip)
> Can anyone help me find a vendor, or better yet, a used one?

Hi, Bill!

Check out http://www.bham.net/afc/ ... that's the website for 
the Alabama Forge Council.  They have a section that's devoted
to swaps and sales.  If nothing else, you could probably either 
post something there or find a link that would help you.

BTW:  I'm hoping to get my POP access back by Friday, but 
don't expect to be able to pick up my email before then.  SIGH!

Dieu vous garde,
Jean-Claude/Doug

From: blackbow at sprynet.com
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Anvils Revisited
Date: 24 Feb 1997 17:32:50 GMT

Just for interest's sake...

I recently told a gentle who posted a question about anvils here on the Rialto
that Northern Hydraulics had them for sale.

That much is true.  However, I have since learned that the things they sell
aren't really very good; they're pot metal at best.  A friend of mine has one,
and told me that they dent easily and often.

So, I guess anybody who really wants a decent anvil had better go find an abandoned railroad rail.  If you get anything useful out of it, email me back; I'd like a chunk of it.

With thanks,
Ld. Jonathan Blackbow
House O'Shannon

From: Brian Dorion <brian.dorion1 at sympatico.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils Revisited
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 1997 00:21:52 -0500

If you are interested in buying an anvil new, you are looking at a fair
piece of change.  A friend of mine sells anvils.  I think that they are
east european, but I'm not sure.  I'm not sure about price,but my guess
is about $4 a pound.

If you're interested, his name is David Robertson (Brenneth) and his
number is (519) 837-3666.  Tell him Konrad sent you.

It might be easier to look in blacksmithing magazines for a more local
supplier of anvils.

Konrad

From: Richard Tucker <nitecrawler7 at worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing, anvils
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 19:36:44 -0500

Calum MacDonald wrote:
> 
> Stefan li Rous wrote:
> >
> > >I have found myself a blower. 
> > >What I've been trying to find is the forge and anvil.

> > I use a piece or Railroad track for my anvil (Cut it to shape with a
> > grinder)
> 
> If you can't find railroad track, some machinists supply shops may have
> anvils.

Centaur Forge, Burlington Wisconsin.  Anvils from Germany, good but
pricey. A good used one goes for a dollar a pound, plus $25 to 50 for a
hard cap (a vital feature for welding or other yellow work).

From: James Crouchet <james at crouchet.com>
Date: June 24, 2005 10:20:13 AM CDT
To: Barony of Bryn Gwlad <bryn-gwlad at ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Bryn-gwlad] RR rail anyone?

Is there a specific sort of work you want to do for which a rail works
well? In general these rails make crummy anvils. Better than nothing but
still crummy. The curved top, lack of a horn, poor stability on the stump
and lack of good 90 degree angles make it a less than optimum choice.

I would recommend one of the 110 lb anvils from Harbor Freight for about
$80. They are good except that the horn will need to be ground to a
smoother finish and the hardy tool hole in the back is rotated 45 degrees
off from where it needs to be. Of course, a rail has no hardy tool hole
anyway so I assume you do not plan to use them.

If you are looking for a smaller, cheaper (protable?) anvil they also have
some nice smaller models in the 10lb range. However, AVOID THE 55 LB ANVIL
since it is nothing but a big door stop.  Made of CAST IRON, the surface
will dent and chip the first time you use it.

I plan to buy one of the 110 lb anvils but not the current crop because of
the misaligned hardy tool hole. My brother John (the blacksmith) is
teaching me the ways of the forge so I actually need to be able to use the
hardy tools. Harbor Freight gets in a couple of shipments of those anvils
each year and, randomly, some have the hardy tool hole set right and some
do not. If the next batch is right, I will get one.

Doré

On Thursday 23 June 2005 09:57 pm, deddy2 at austin.rr.com wrote:
>    Does anyone know where I can get Railroad rail for 
> anvils? I think all I need is a foot or two.
>
>    Thanks in advance.
>
>    Jovian

To: EKMetalsmiths@yahoogroups.com
Subj: Re: anvil make over
Posted by: "Saint Phlip" phlip@99main.com   Phlip_U
Date: Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:59 pm (PST)

On Jan 13, 2008 4:28 PM, xnexus1 <xnexus1@yahoo.com> wrote:
> i just picked up two anvils and at least the one needs a new face any
> suggestions on how to go about this with a min. of headaches.

Well, it's going to kinda depend on exactly what's wrong. If all
that's wrong is that it's a bit swaybacked, that can be ignored. If
it's just a bit dinged up, it can often be ground down. If it has
deep dings, often they can be welded. If it truly needs refaced, then
you have a royal PITA on your hands- not impossible to fix, but
perhaps more aggravation than the anvil is worth.

Can you post pictures? Preferably angled so we can see the problems?
And, where are you? I know New
Jersey Blacksmiths tend to have anvil fix-up workshops every year-
possibly it might be a candidate for one of those. I know I've been
intending to take Johan's Mousehole over there- just haven't had the
money yet.
-- 
Saint Phlip

To: EKMetalsmiths@yahoogroups.com
Subj: Re: Learning curve- was - Re: [EKMetalsmiths] Re: anvil make over
Posted by: "Michael L Wilson" wilsonm@cs.rpi.edu   EZPigeon
Date: Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:35 pm (PST)

...and I've been making knives -- somewhere north of 50 of them so far -- 
on a piece of railroad track I got from Phlip back about 5 years or so. 
Actually, for knives, a railroad track is easier than a real anvil. The 
crowned face allows me to peen both sides at once. On a flat anvil, I'd 
need to be a lot more careful.

We should all remember, the old norsemen used to make swords, in 4-inch 
heats, on a 4-inch lump of iron we would never recognize as an anvil. 
That's my bladework roots -- even though I just got my first belt grinder 
earlier this week. (Sitting in the bedroom and making the girl very 
unhappy about that!)

Someone on this list -- Frosty, wasn't it you? -- used to use a chunk of 
honest-to-god _stone_ for an anvil, just to see if he could. It is, as 
Phlip's sig reminds us, the smith that makes the tools, not the tools that 
make the smith.

-Francis Bean

From: Sluggy! <sluggy9912@swbell.net>
Date: August 13, 2010 5:16:51 PM CDT
To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra@lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] ISO an anvil

I have a lot of Harbor Freight tools, but not an anvil from there.

Their 55 lb anvil is either pretty soft steel or just cast iron; same with the 15 pound. There is no ring to them at all.

http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/sluggy9912/?action=view&current=IMG01069.jpg

Gabby got this Russian made 110 lb anvil from Harbor Freight as a gift for me a couple of years ago. It rings like a glass bell.

The horn is not particularly conical and the surface of the horn was pretty rough. Lots of time with sanding discs in the angle grinder and polishing with emery belts has made it into a decent horn, though still not as pointy as I would prefer.

The face has machining marks indicating that they could have run the mill over the face a little slower for a better finish.

The hardy hole is apparently cast into it. It's at the goofy angle probably to assist in releasing from the mold. As yet, it hasn't been a problem, but I really only have one hardy at this point. The use of a proper bick would probably suffer from the offset....

For all these little issues, it's been great for the limited bit of work I've done lately. It's seen more use in fabricating brackets for motorcycle parts and repairing door hinges than cuttlery...

The bad news is that I haven't seen one there since then.

Sluggy!

From: Sher M <runa.herd@earthlink.net>
To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra@lists.ansteorra.org>
Sent: Fri, August 13, 2010 3:06:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] ISO an anvil

I found my 'baby' anvil made from a rail at a garage sale that was one of those all along the side of the road that was in Round Rock area if I remember correctly.

Sher Montgomery & The Thundering Herd
www.bedlambazaar.com
http://thethunderingherd.net

From: WESLEY SIMPSON <slovaczek@sbcglobal.net>
Date: August 14, 2010 2:20:32 AM CDT
To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra@lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] ISO an anvil

I found my railroad anvil by contacting a switching yard and asking around, and they told me when to get one, (whenever they replace a section of track, there is some cutting or rails and small pieces of rail are discarded) so I suggest contacting your local switching area or yard.

Vaclav Slovaczek

From: John Reuter <jareuter1066@sbcglobal.net>
Date: August 15, 2010 9:54:49 AM CDT
To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra@lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] ISO an anvil

I used a chop saw and about four blades to cut a smaller RR track. Allot of sparks and an hour later it was cut!
Ahh what I would have given for a CnC plasma cutter!

Brian  :0)

From: Bree Flowers <evethejust@gmail.com>
Date: August 16, 2010 11:43:06 AM CDT
To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra@lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] ISO an anvil

<<< I've wanted to get a small piece of railroad rail for some time to use as an anvil. However, a piece over the foot or so that I need would be rather heavy to get home, but if I did, how could I cut it to size?  How would I do so if the piece they showed me was four or five feet long and I needed to cut it onsite before I could even transport it home? >>>

Now what I'm thinking is if someone was offered a piece of this size,
that one could find a guy with a truck and a guy with access to some
sort of cutting machine, take the whole piece and work out splitting
it up later. It's not like any spare bits would go homeless for long
in this group.

~Eve

<the end>

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