Medievl-Pasta-art - 10/24/00
"Medieval Pasta!" by Lady Jehanne de Huguenin.
NOTE: See also the files: pasta-msg, flour-msg, cuskynoles-msg, cheese-msg, fd-Italy-msg, spice-mixes-msg, pasta-gnocchi-msg, pasta-stufed-msg, grains-msg.
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NOTICE -
This article was submitted to me by the author for inclusion in this set
of files, called Stefan's Florilegium.
These files are available on the Internet at:
Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author.
While the author will likely give permission for this work to be
reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first
or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris
AKA: Stefan li Rous
stefan at florilegium.org
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Originally published in August, AS 34 in "Storm Tidings", the newsletter for the Shire of Adamastor in Cape Town, South Africa.
(http://users.iafrica.com/m/me/melisant/stidings.htm)
Medieval Pasta!
by Lady Jehanne de Huguenin
The Cooks' Guild had much amusement at the last event with pasta
construction. Most medieval pasta dishes specify a "foyle of dough" made
from flour and water; we added egg, which does occur in a few recipes
(Constance Hieatt mentions one from the Anglo-Norman cookery manuscript).
You could use a standard broad commercial noodle or lasagne. Most medieval
pasta dishes seem to be exclusively cheese dishes, with a few possibilities
for meat and vegetable ravioli. See below for a series of recipes from The
Form of Curye, a 14th century English cookbook. Makerouns and Losyns were
the dishes we made for the event.
Makerouns
Take and makke a thynne foyle of dowh, and kerve it on peces, and cast hym
on boillyng water & seeþ it wele. Take chese and grate it, and butter
imelte, caste bynethen and above as losyns; and serve forth.
Take and make a thin foil of dough, and cut it in pieces, and cast them
into boiling water, and seethe it well. Take cheese and grate it, and melt
butter, put [them] beneath and above as you do with losyns [i.e. layer with
the pasta], and serve.
á Constructing this dish can be a bit tricky with timing, since you donŐt
reheat the pasta with the cheese and butter, and thus need to work fairly
quickly.
á Boil the pasta until itŐs cooked; immediately drain and layer with grated
cheese and melted butter, and serve immediately. The heat of the
recently-cooked pasta does melt the cheese.
á You should use a hard cheese such as cheddar, as the recipe specifies
grating it; you can vary the proportions of cheese to butter to noodles to
taste, depending on how rich/fatty you want the dish to be.
á Do add salt to the boiling water, although the recipe doesnŐt specify
this; the addition of salt was often assumed, judging by the fact that
Platina warns us not to over-salt without ever telling us to salt in the
first place.
Losyns
Take good broth and do in an erthen pot. Take flour of pandemayne and make
þereof past with water, and make þerof thynne foyles as paper with a
roller; drye it harde and seeþ it in broth. Take chese ruayn grated and lay
it in disshes with powdour douce, and lay theron loseyns isolde as hoole as
thou myst, and above powdour and chese; and so twyse or thryse, & serve it
forth.
Take good broth and put into an earthen pot. Take [high-quality white]
flour and make of it a paste with water, and make of it thin foils like
paper, with a roller; dry it hard and boil it in broth. Take autumn cheese,
grated, and lay it in dishes with sweet spice powder, and lay onto it
lozenges as whole as you can, and above them [lay] powder and cheese, and
repeat the layers twice or thrice, and serve it.
á Like the first recipe, this needs to be assembled and served with speed
to allow the cheese to melt on the hot pasta without reheating.
á "Loysns" means lozenges, referring to the shape of the pasta; you can cut
your sheet of dough into diamond shapes if making it fresh.
á It makes a huge difference to the flavour to cook the pasta in broth;
either a home-made meat or vegetable stock, or one of the commercial cube
variety.
á "Poudre douce" is literally sweet powder; a mixture of sugar and the less
piquant spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg.
á The lozenges of pasta are layered with grated cheese and spices; again,
the cheese should be grating texture, but an autumn cheese is semi-soft -
harder than Brie or Camembert, but not as hard as cheddar. IŐd probably go
for mozarella; Hieatt & Butler suggest Pont lŐEveque.
Ravieles
Take wete chese and grynde hit smal, & medle hit wyt eyren & saffron and a
god quantite of buttur. Make a thin foile of dowe & close hem þerin as
turteletes, & cast hem in boylyng watur, & sethe hem þerin. Take hot burrur
meltede & chese ygratede, & ley þi ravioles in dissches; & ley þi hote
buttur wyt gratede chese bineþe & aboue, & cast þereon powdur douce.
Take [sweet or white] cheese and grind it small, and mix it with eggs and
saffron and a good quantity of butter. Make a thin foil of dough and
enclose [the filling] in them as you do with tartelettes, and put them into
boiling water and boil them. Take hot melted butter and grated cheese, and
lay the ravioles in dishes, and lay the hot butter with grated cheese below
and above them, and sprinkle with sweet powder.
á I havenŐt tried this recipe; it seems to be a fairly straightforward
cheese ravioli, boiled and then served with grated cheese and butter.
Tartlettes are a similar filled pasta dish with a pork and currant filling.
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Copyright 1999 by Lady Jehanne de Huguenin, jessica at beattie.uct.ac.za, P O Box 443, Rondebosch 7701, Cape Town, South Africa.. Permission is granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is credited and receives a copy.
If this article is reprinted in a publication, I would appreciate a notice in
the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also
appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being
reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.
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