wax-tablets-msg – 7/5/08
Use and making of period wax tablets.
NOTE: See also the files: parchment-msg, sealing-wax-msg, inks-msg, alphabets-msg, paper-msg, quills-msg, commerce-msg, candles-msg, beeswax-msg.
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This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.
This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.
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Thank you,
Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous
Stefan at florilegium.org
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 13:48:25 -0500
From: Hank Harwell <cleireac at juno.com>
To: sca-arts at UKANS.EDU
Subject: Wax Tablets Assistance
I know that this subject was covered a few months ago, but alas I failed
to save all of the messages.
I am in the process of trying to construct a wax tablet just so I can say
I did it.
I am using a piece of non-aromatic cedar and I have plenty of beeswax.
I hollowed out the bed for the wax, melted the wax and poured it into the
bed. the result is a rather lumpy writing surface, and totally unlike
the smooth scribing surfaces I've seen on other people's tablets. I have
tried several ways to smooth out the surface, to no luck. What did I do
wrong? What should I try?
Brother Cleireac of Inisliath
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 13:18:08 -0600
From: Stephanie Howe <olga at icon-stl.net>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Wax Tablets Assistance
My guess is that your wax wasn't hot enough. It should be very fluid
when you pour it, so that the surface will level itself as it cools.
(Warming the wood up first can help, too) To fix the problem now, you
can place the whole thing in a warm oven and *watch it closely* to
smooth the surface. Or if you don't mind a modern version of this
solution, I've put mine in the microwave on high for 30 seconds to a
minute- again, keeping a close watch that it doesn't get too hot and
boil. The wax will penetrate the grain of the wood, and change it's
color, by the way.
Olga
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 13:40:26 -0600
From: "I. Marc Carlson" <LIB_IMC at centum.utulsa.edu>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: RE: Wax Tablets Assistance
<Hank Harwell <cleireac at juno.com>>
>...I hollowed out the bed for the wax, melted the wax and poured it into the
>bed. the result is a rather lumpy writing surface, and totally unlike
>the smooth scribing surfaces I've seen on other people's tablets. I have
>tried several ways to smooth out the surface, to no luck. What did I do
>wrong? What should I try?
Two possibilities leap to mind. Either you didn't cut the bed for the wax
deeply enough and the wood is pushing up, or the wax is lumpy. Where did
you get your beeswax? Did you melt it completely? Since molten beeswax is
a liquid, when it dries it really is supposed to dry flat. I think that's
a law someplace.
Marc/Diarmaid
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 14:49:10 -0500
From: Steven Proctor <sproctor at snet.net>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Wax Tablets Assistance
One thing to be wary of here is that sometimes the blackening agent
(Usually Lampblack) can separate from the beeswax and give you a surface
that's cloudy, light here, dark there. I'd suggest taking out all of the
wax, remelting it and replacing it. Heat it very thoroughly when you put
it back in, and do make sure that the surface below the wax is as smooth
as you can make it. That has a great deal to do with the surface above.
Morgan
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 16:04:11 -0500
From: capriest at cs.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman)
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Wax Tablets Assistance
Brother Cleireac wrote:
>I hollowed out the bed for the wax, melted the wax and poured it into the
>bed. the result is a rather lumpy writing surface, and totally unlike
>the smooth scribing surfaces I've seen on other people's tablets. I have
>tried several ways to smooth out the surface, to no luck. What did I do
>wrong? What should I try?
You may be having a problem because of the wood you chose. Hardwoods make
better diptychs because they're not so porous. Have you tried scraping out
the wax and re-pouring? Often that helps.
For a more complete set of instructions on waxing your tablets, here is a
quote from "Making and Using Waxed Tablets," an article my husband and I
co-wrote. It's 95 percent ready to post on my website, so consider this a
preview. ;>
********************
begin quote
Now that you have prepared the tablets, you must apply a thin layer of wax
to each writing surface. I recommend beeswax blackened with lampblack
(powdered carbon). Beeswax can be obtained at any apiary, or wherever you
can buy honey in quantity. Lampblack can be purchased from pigment
suppliers. Alternatively, you can blacken the wax by melting a black wax
crayon into it. Some manufacturers make crayons with plastic in them; if
you are not sure what your crayon is made of, melt it separately. If it
melts like wax, you're OK.
If you have a thermometer, then heat the wax in a pot with the thermometer
in it (remember to keep the thermometer from touching the bottom of the
pan). At this point keep the wax around 225 degrees Fahrenheit. If you
don't have a candy thermometer, melt your wax in a double-boiler. Either
way, don't fill the pot more than halfway with wax.
Once the wax is liquid, add the carbon slowly and carefully; as you add the
carbon, the wax may suddenly boil and foam vigorously, so add it slowly and
stir continuously. Do not ever leave the wax on the heat unattended. You
will need to add from one to three tablespoons of carbon to a quarter- to a
half-pound of wax. Once the wax has stablized, stir until the carbon is
evenly distributed. Then stir some more. Check the color of the wax by
pouring a spoonful into a depression in some aluminum foil; once it has
cooled and hardened, check the color and add more carbon if you want it
darker. Be sure to let the wax harden completely: it will look greenish
when warm, but will darken as it cools.
Lay the tablets on a level surface. Double-check that the tablets are
level, and shim the corners of the tablets as necessary.
If you are using a thermometer, slowly bring the wax up to 300 degrees. If
you are using a double-boiler, let the water boil in order to bring up the
heat of the melted wax. I have found that the hotter wax cools into a
smoother surface and gives you a little more time to spread it out before it
hardens. However, *if you don't* have a thermometer to use, then use the
double-boiler for safety!
Stir the wax one last time. Pour the molten (this means *very hot*) wax
into the tablets, using a chopstick or other narrow rod to direct the flow
to the middle of the tablet. Use the stick to break the surface tension and
conduct the wax evenly over the entire surface. Don't overpour: it is
better to pour a thin layer than to overflow the tablet.
Usually, the wood will bubble as the wax seeps in; these bubbles will create
an uneven surface. So, before the wax has entirely cooled, scrape it out
with a spoon (sorry, folks), re-melt it, and pour it again. Generally, it
is only necessary to re-pour once, but if the wax has too many bubbles you
may choose to re-pour again. Bubbles in the wax create a poor writing
surface.
Once the wax has cooled enough for the plates to be moved, place them on a
cooling rack. Forced cooling, as in a refrigerator, can produce a poor
surface; be patient. If you have made a double-sided mid-plate, then you
need to wax both sides. Make sure the first side has entirely cooled before
pouring the second.
end quote
***************************************************
Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth
capriest at cs.vassar.edu Frostahlid, Austrriki
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 18:41:14 -0800
From: Brett and Karen Williams <brettwi at earthlink.net>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Wax Tablets Assistance
> One thing to be wary of here is that sometimes the blackening agent
> (Usually Lampblack) can separate from the beeswax and give you a surface
> that's cloudy, light here, dark there. I'd suggest taking out all of the
> wax, remelting it and replacing it. Heat it very thoroughly when you put
> it back in, and do make sure that the surface below the wax is as smooth
> as you can make it. That has a great deal to do with the surface above.
>
> Morgan
Or, you can check into batik supplies and find a block of black beeswax
pre-made. Both black and lovely beeswax scent, too.
ciorstan
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 03:02:17 -0600
From: Roberta R Comstock <froggestow at juno.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Wax Tablets Assistance
On Wed, 27 Jan 1999 23:08:02 -0600 "Somers" <somers at fn.net> writes:
>OK, here I am about to show my complete ignorance, but somehow in all my
>research for C and I, I have yet to run across wax tablets.......from the
>recent posts, I think I understand what they are, but what are they
>for?
>
>Eliane
Temporary notes. Schedule of the day. An idea you want to save til you
get home to your more permanent writing materials.
Hertha
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:33:14 -0800
From: Mary Haselbauer <slaine at stlnet.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Wax Tablets
>OK, here I am about to show my complete ignorance, but somehow in all my
>research for C and I, I have yet to run across wax tablets.......from >the
>recent posts, I think I understand what they are, but what are they for?
>Eliane
Wax tablet were the scratch paper of a paperless society. You can make a
shopping list or a preliminary sketch by scratching the surface of the
wax with a sharp stick and then "erase" it by rubbing the wax surface
smooth (or microwaving it as Olga suggested.) I have made a few
wooden ones and one made out of polymer clay to look like ivory.
I found reference for green wax as well as black. My "ivory" tablet
is only about 2 by 3.5 inches and the non wax side has a carving of
a courtly looking couple.
Wax tablets are a really simple way to be a little more medieval.
Slaine
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 08:56:31 -0500
From: Margo Lynn Hablutzel <Hablutzel at compuserve.com>
To: A&S List <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>
Subject: wax tablets
>Can you put this "ivory" tablet in the microwave to erase and smooth
>it out? Or is this distructive to the filo clay or the microwave?
I wouldn't do this, because microwaves heat unevenly, and if the wax melts
there is the possibility of it running out, or getting absorbed into the wood.
You can try using a directed source of heat, such as a small flame.
Usually, rubbing the wax does an OK job of erasure. (I have a neat booklet
that I picked up at Boar's Head in December, two tablets that come together
like a book, with a stylus that has a point on one end and a blunt opposite
end for rubbing.) If the room is cold, use your hand to rub as the heat will
soften the wax. Although a sunny window spot may also work.
--- Morgan
Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 14:20:32 -0500
From: rmhowe <magnusm at ncsu.edu>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: wax tablets
Mary Haselbauer wrote:
> >Can you put this "ivory" tablet in the microwave to erase and smooth
> >it out? Or is this distructive to the filo clay or the microwave?
>
> I haven't tried this. The last time I used it was at a demo and the
> hot sun did the trick.
> Hmmmmmm, It's experimentation time.
> Slaine
When I worked as a modelmaker and we used to use beeswax in our RTV
molds we simply warmed / melted it under a 100 watt spring-arm lamp
in the bowl in which we kept it.
The closer the lamp, the hotter it gets, and you have that added
advantage of not heating it from the underside in a pot and building
up potentially explosive gases if it overheats outside of a double
boiler. I haven't seen a wax explosion but I've just always read that
you shouldn't heat wax in a regular pan because of the potential gas
buildup. Hot sticky stuff on your skin hurts. I KNOW that personally.
But I liked the microwave Idea. Wax that thin shouldn't be a problem.
Microcrystalline wax is what you can buy in toilet bowl rings and is
a cheap substitute for beeswax. New, it is quite clean.
Magnus
Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 11:55:37 -0600
From: Stephanie Howe <olga at icon-stl.net>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Medieval Microwaves (Wax Tablets)
> I wouldn't do this, because microwaves heat unevenly, and if the wax melts
> there is the possibility of it running out, or getting absorbed into the wood.
> ---= Morgan
That's why you have to watch it *very* closely- and shut off the oven as
soon as the wax starts to show liquid spots. It will continue to melt
for a minute or two, then cool nice and smooth. It does tend to soak
into the wood, esp. if you let it go a bit too long and the wax gets too
hot- showing bubbling. If you take care to set the leaves of the tablet
level in the oven, the wax is very unlikely to run out so long as you
don't allow it to boil over...which would be 'way too hot.
Of course, setting the open leaves on the dashboard on a sunny day while
driving to or from an event does the job nicely, too...;)
Olga
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 11:42:53 -0500
From: capriest at cs.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman)
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: wax tablets
Ciorstan wrote:
>the wax,
>once reaching a particular temperature, vaporizes. Airborne particles
>can then catch fire. Results Are Not Pretty. Probably on the
>'not-covered-due-to-homeowner's-stupidity' list of disasters eyed
>suspiciously by insurance agents.
>
>IIRC, above 180 degrees F.
I checked with Dof on this. He's poured over 300 tablets using lamp black
and pure beeswax. He says he finds that the best wax temperature for
pouring tablets is around 300 F when measured on our candy thermometer--and
I don't remember him ever burning down the domicile. ;> He says that at
lower temperatures the wax is not as smooth; the lower the temperature, the
lumpier the product.
Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth
capriest at cs.vassar.edu Frostahlid, Austrriki
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 11:44:50 -0500
From: capriest at cs.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman)
To: sca-east at indra.com
Cc: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Wax Tablets URL
The article "Making and Using Waxed Tablets" has been added to my website.
Direct URL is:
http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/tablets.html
It will also be available off the Viking Resources page as soon as I edit
that page.
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 01:24:06 -0800
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah at grin.net>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu, al-Taifa at onelist.com
Subject: Wax Writing Tablets in the Muslim World?
I wonder if anyone knows whether wax tablets were used in the
Medieval Near East? While wax would be soft in the heat, it wouldn't
be running off the wooden frame in an urban setting... I know they
were used in the Roman Empire, Byzantium, and in parts of Northern
and Western Europe - for Medieval Western Europe see:
http://www.yorkarch.demon.co.uk/secrets/meddrs.htm
It would be interesting to have something historic to jot notes on,
on occasion, other than my little paper note-pad and felt-tipped pen
(i'm not ready to carry around an ink bottle and quill or reed -
although J.A. Townsend has a nifty portable set)
If not, was there some other sort of portable note-taking material
(paper, papyrus, rags, bark...)? I know about the use of ostraca in
the ancient world for notes and short messages (write on with ink).
Anahita al-shazhiya
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 17:11:51 -0500
From: capriest at cs.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman)
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Wax Writing Tablets in the Muslim World?
Anahita wrote:
>I wonder if anyone knows whether wax tablets were used in the=20
>Medieval Near East?
[snip]
>If not, was there some other sort of portable note-taking material=20
>(paper, papyrus, rags, bark...)?
The Cairo genizeh is stuffed full of used papyri from the period in
question. If you're Egyptian you're home free!
But I don't know of any medieval-period wax tablets in the Near East. The
earliest known ones are from that part of the world, though: Late Bronze
Age, either Canaanite or Cypriot.
http://nautarch.tamu.edu/ina/ub_main.htm
Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth
capriest at cs. vassar. edu Frostahlid, Austmork
From: clevin at ripco.com (Craig Levin)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Period Writing Implements?
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 13:30:09 +0000 (UTC)
Zebee Johnstone <zebee at zip.com.au> wrote:
>In rec.org.sca on Sat, 03 Jan 2004 23:52:36 -0500
>Julie <j.golick at sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> so are most modern pencils. On the other hand, I don't want to carry lots
>> of cumbersome tools (eg: quills, ink fountain, blotter, etc.) Therefore,
>> what could I use that looks period but is still easily portable?
>
>Well.. wax tablets would need transcribing, but are quite period. I
>have Ulf's instructions on making one at
>http://www.zipworld.com.au/~zebee
There are also a few people who sell them. Canada's a bit far
away from the Maryland area, but you could look up the website of
the people who sold mine to me: www.spanishpeacock.com . They're
working on their catalogue right now, but I can describe my wax
tablets to you:
Originally, they were two pieces of hardwood, about three inches
by five inches in area, and about a quarter of an inch deep. Each
of the pieces of hardwood was slightly hollowed out on one side.
Two holes were drilled on one of the long edges of each piece of
wood. The hollow areas were filled with beeswax. The two pieces
of wood were attached to one another by leather strips that went
through the holes. I later had a middle piece of hardwood,
prepared in much the same way as the original pair, except that
it's been hollowed out on both sides and the hollows filled with
beeswax, put in between the original pair.
You write on them with a stylus, which looks a lot like a dart,
except that at the butt, instead of feathers, there's a tiny
spade for smoothing over your writing. I use mine for my court
docket (I'm a herald) all of the time. It's conveniently sized
(about the same size as a PDA or set of index cards), I've never
had the wax melt and fill in my notes, it doesn't need any
batteries (although the low light contrast is pretty bad-next
time I do court in the dark, I'm hiring a linkboy!), and it's a
great way to teach people that parchment, papyrus, and paper
weren't the only common writing surfaces.
Pedro
--
http://pages.ripco.net/~clevin/index.html
From: Sandy Straubhaar <orchzis at hotmail.com>
Date: January 28, 2008 11:10:24 AM CST
To: <bryn-gwlad at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Bryn-gwlad] Tangent: Wax Tablets
Greetings! Ysabeau wrote:
> I'm curious as to how the wax tablet has held up in Ansteorran weather. I
> know that I have problems with candles melting as early as May, and
> sometimes April.
>
> Ysabeau
Maybe it's because candles have to stand up straight, and sometimes are on tables outside in the sunshine? I've never had any problem at all with the tablet. I have to replace the beeswax every now and then (because so much writing on it, and subsequent smoothing-out, takes down the wax level). I just disassemble the two leaves (the tablet opens up like a book -- exactly like the ones below) and throw some grated beeswax on top and microwave them for a few seconds.
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bild:Wachstafel.jpg http://www.skriptorium.at/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=610
If you do it while the leaves are still attached together, the little leather hinges make them a bit slanted (not flush to the microwave plate), and the wax runs all over the place. Master Ranthulfr, in the Middle Kingdom, has been taking notes at meetings on wax tablets (of his own make) for years. http://www.randyasplund.com/browse/scribepg/tablets.html
In fact I had forgotten where mine came from. I was thinking it was one of his. But a few months back I was admiring a wax tablet that a (mundane) German friend has, and I said, "Wow, that's _exactly_ like the one I have." She looked at me kinda funny and said, "Yeah, because I gave it to you."
So now I know where mine came from. . .
brynhildr
From: ihos at onebox.com
Date: January 28, 2008 2:15:19 PM CST
To: bryn-gwlad at lists.ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Bryn-gwlad] Tangent: Wax Tablets
If you would like to buy your own wax tablet, check out www.spanishpeacock.com. They seem to be pretty reasonable on prices. They also have care instructions on the website.
Ashe
--
Thom Rolston
<the end>
