Title: emb-linen-msg
Subject: Embroidery linen sources.
Author: Edited by Mark Harris
Last saved by: Mark S. Harris
Keywords: embroidery, cross-stitch, linen, material, medieval, source

emb-linen-msg - 12/2/97

Embroidery linen sources.

NOTE: See also the files: embroidery-msg, emb-blackwork-msg, embroidery-SW-msg, emb-frames-msg, P-Emb-Frames-art, linen-msg, textiles-msg, cross-stitch-msg, p-x-stitch-art.

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    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous
                                          Stefan at florilegium.org
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 10:46:47 -0700
From: Timothy Patrick <swordman at discover.net>
To: sca arts <SCA-ARTS at UKANS.EDU>
Subject: embroidery lined

I am learning to do cutwork (hardanger and hemstitching to start) and am
looking for materials to do it on.  I wanted to try out linen, which I've
never used before, but the prices for embroidery linen is way out of my
price range.  On-line sources are around $50.00 per yard.  I could try
cotton hardanger cloth, but I think I prefer single woven fabric and the
hardanger cloth I have seen is double threads.  It is also over $20.00 a
yard.  Can anyone give me a source of linen that is under $20.00 per yard? 
Do you know if I need to use embroidery linen or could I use plain old
linen.  Is there some othe material that I don't know about?  Although I've
been doing enbroidery all my life, I find I am an absolute beginner when it
comes to materials and know shamefully little about them.  I only learned
what aida cloth was a few years ago. Any information would be much
apriciated.

Thanks
Aubrey Anna

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 14:24:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: EowynA at aol.com
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: embroidery linen

Greetings unto Aubrey Anna ,

You inquired about sources for embroidery linen less than $50/yard.  That's 
pretty much the going rate.  Most modern embroiderers use what is called a 
"fat quarter" -- which is a quarter yard that is 1/2 yard in length, and half
the fabric width in width.  It is the same area that a quarter yard cut the normal way is, but the results are more nearly square, instead of a very long
rectangle.
This of course costs a quarter of the full yard price, which brings it into the
realm of almost reasonable for embroidery pictures and such.   I presume your
intent is to make something rather larger. 

My advice is to buy a bit of embroidery linen (a fat quarter or less) in your
preferred count (threads per inch -- 28 to 36 is common, and then it
generally is worked over two threads), and a little linen from the fabric
store (typically not the same counts as embroidery linen -- I've found
upholstery linen is rather courser, blouse-weight linen finer, and also
perhaps keep your eye open for "white sales" at the local dept. store. Their
linen table cloths on sale can sometimes be great fabric buys.    Then
experiment.  On the finer cloth, you may have to go over four threads instead
of two.  On courser, over only one thread where you would normally do two.
 See what you like to use, what gives the effect you want. 

I admit, I love linen for embroidery (I mainly do cross-stitch, Assisi,
blackwork, Elizabethan polychrome silk and metal thread, some stumpwork,
pulled thread, and dabble in a few others) , and will hardly use anything
else.  But fine materials cost fine money.  I experiment with whatever I have
on hand, but use the good stuff for the projects that I will spend some time
working on. 

Have fun!

Eowyn Amberdrake, Caid
(Laurel, Pelican, etc.)

Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 11:42:59 -0700
From: Lady Catherine Mcgire <lcatherinemc at hotmail.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: embroidery linen

EowynA at aol.com wrote:
> My advice is to buy a bit of embroidery linen (a fat quarter or less) in your
> preferred count (threads per inch -- 28 to 36 is common, and then it
> generally is worked over two threads), and a little linen from the fabric
> store (typically not the same counts as embroidery linen -- I've found
> upholstery linen is rather courser, blouse-weight linen finer, and also
> perhaps keep your eye open for "white sales" at the local dept. store. Their
> linen table cloths on sale can sometimes be great fabric buys.    Then
> experiment.  On the finer cloth, you may have to go over four threads instead
> of two.  On courser, over only one thread where you would normally do two.
>  See what you like to use, what gives the effect you want.
> 
> Eowyn Amberdrake, Caid
> (Laurel, Pelican, etc.)

I agree with Eowyn Amberdrake said for the most part, but you can
generally find "better prices from catalogues the service the home
sewing trade.  I have found natural(100% linen) linen "suiteing"  that
is about 28- to 32 count in natural and some colors from anywhere $10.00
to $15.00 a yard.  Granted this is not "embroidery" linen but it works
well.  I have made a table "runner" circa 1300 using this, submitted it
to an Arts tournment and got  good coments on it (it won over 11 other
entries).  Also if you want to be a "purist", Wal-Mart carries
prepackaged cross stich linen, including Irish(both raw and bleached) at
prices that are with in reason $6.95 for a 24x36 inch piece on up.  Good
luck with your project.
                                Lady Katherine Malveren Mc Guire

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 15:22:04 -0500
From: flyingneedle at webtv.net (Betty Pillsbury)
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: embroidery lined

Greetings Aubrey,

Congratulations for having the determination to go ahead and try new
things.  Hardanger must be done on an evenweave cloth (the same number
weft as warp threads).  As mentioned already, linen and other evenweave
blends are expensive.  You might check out Nordic Needle
(1-800433-4321).  They often have sales on linen and hardanger cloth.  

As far as hemstitching goes:  it can  be done in a couple different
ways.  You can do it on coarse linen (up to 40 ct) and count each thread
as you hemstitch.  Or, you can use oyster linen (about 80 ct) and is
available at fabric shops for 20-25 per yard (60 inches wide).  To
hemstitch with this fine linen, do not count the threads, but use a
ruler to measure out your intervals.  

Hope this helps you.  Good luck and keep finding new embroidery
techniques.

Bronwynn O'Loughlin

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 14:21:35 -0800
From: fspfw at aurora.alaska.edu (Patrick and April Woolery)
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: embroidery linen

        Greetings to Aubrey Anna and the members of the list.

        I am also interested in cutwork, and I had the same revelation
about linen prices.  I economized by practicing on cheaper cotton cloth -
onasberg is my favorite.  It is coarse but it serves, and it costs
$3.50/yd. here in Fairbanks, Alaska.  It may well be obtained more cheaply
in your area.
        I asked a seamstress friend of mine where she obtains cloth for
such projects.  She buys linen at a local "antique" store in the form of
napkins, tablecloths, etc.  She says that these cannot be bettered for
price and availability, at least in our small, out-of-the-way town.  The
situation may be reversed in most areas, but price checking could prove
worthwhile.  Thrift stores may also be worth a try.

        Good hunting,
        Nataliia Tomasovna

Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 09:00:50 -0400
From: karen at georesearch.com (Karen Green)
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: embroidery linen

While hardanger is OOP by about 300 years, it's closely related to
cutwork and it's a good first step in learning cutwork.  You might want
to pick up some 22-count Aida to play with.  :)

Karen Larsdatter
  Barony of Ponte Alto, Atlantia

Date: Sun, 03 Aug 1997 09:47:37 -0700
From: ladymari at GILA.NET (Mary Hysong)
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: embroidery linen

If you don't mind using cotton instead of linen I have purchased 22
count cotton embroidery cloth by the yard at some fabric stores and saw
it once at Walmart.  I beleive the brand was Charles Craft, but might be
mistaken.  Worth looking around for.  it's usually not out and obvioous
in the big fabric stores, so you might have to ask.  I cross stitched
roses for the yoke of a western shirt on it with one or two strand of
floss which was enough to cover.
Hope the helps.
Mairi
--
Mary Hysong <Lady Mairi Broder> and  Curtis Edenfield <The C-Man>

Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 14:03:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: fiondel at i1.net
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: embroidery linen

As regards emboirdery linen:

I did some white-on-white church linens for my minister once, and 
my fee was that he buy twice as much linen as he required.  When
I saw it, I just had to know where it came from, because it was
perfect.  I was told that most of the larger religious supply 
shops either have church linen, or can order it, relatively quickly,
for minimal cost.  Beautiful stuff.  Holds a stitch well, works 
easily, and clean up is a breeze.  So, you might want to call a 
local religious supply.  If you don't have one near you, let me 
know.  There's one right down the street from me.

After all, many of the churches designs haven't changed since the
early 1300's.

Fiondel 

Date: Thu, 13 Nov 97 13:29:30 PST
From: "Frank&Tracy Thallas Jr" <hardcorps at vcn.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: SCA-ARTS digest 252blackwork cufs

> >If you don't use linen, any even-weave fabric will do nicely.
> >The best of luck!     Phillipa
>
> What kind of count would be best for something like this?  Are you talking
> normal linen that you can pick up at a cloth store or something limited to
> special stitching shops?  If normal cloth store stuff, how do you see to
> count it?
>
> Clare

I have used fine batiste for most of my projects, since linen is not available in this area; generally about 66-68 count.  The way I see to count it is to take my glasses off and hold the fabric VERY close to my face ... <g>

   On the subject of uneven thread count,  most of the fabric I've used isn't quite right - you can stitch a small square in the stitch size you plan to use to determine this, and then adjust accordingly to make your square actually "square".  Even Onasburg (which make great "tourney" shirts , wear forever) can be worked this way.

Liadain

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Edited by Mark S. Harris	emb-linen-msg	Page  of